Conquering Kiawah Island’s Ocean Course: Play Well in Any Weather

On nearly every golfer’s list of top courses to play in North America, The Ocean Course at Kiawah Island Golf Resort stands out. It features the most oceanside holes in the Northern Hemisphere, with 10 along the Atlantic and another eight running adjacent. Designer Pete Dye’s wife, Alice, recommended raising the holes to dune height so players would have unobstructed views of the ocean. What she didn’t fully anticipate was how the wind would alter play. Outside of Ireland, few courses face winds as persistent and strong as those at Kiawah, often creating an eight-club difference in shot selection.

Most readers will recognize Kiawah Island Resort from travel stories or televised PGA events. Recently the Bidens stayed for a week in a large oceanfront home on the Ocean Course fairway; many of those properties exceed $35 million in value. The Sanctuary Hotel offers the island’s most desirable accommodations. During our stay we enjoyed memorable dinners at The Ocean Room and The Atlantic Room. The Ocean Room delivered the more impressive presentation and meal, with standout appetizers. I ordered caviar for the table to some raised eyebrows, but it proved a crowd-pleaser. Chef Robert Rando and his team put on a spectacular performance.

Hats off to our planning crew: John Kelley (aka “The Apprentice”) secured all the dinner reservations, and Neil Curran (aka “Swirly”) selected the wines to pair with each meal. A special shout-out goes to trip captain Bob Hancock, who organized the itinerary and kept track of the credit card points.

When booking accommodations, caveat emptor. There’s a large quality gap between The Sanctuary, the lavish beachfront mansions, and the privately owned condominiums. Since our trip focused on golf—often twice a day—and fine dining, we reserved two-bedroom condos. These units, rented through the resort but owned individually, were disappointing: dated, in need of renovations, and poorly stocked. I shared a condo with my brother; his room had a twin bed in outdated decor and broken blinds. Several in our group reported missing essentials promised in listings, such as proper kitchen utensils, glassware, and plates. Happy hour required improvisation. Still, between course quality, dining, and overall value, Kiawah ranks above other golf destinations like Myrtle Beach. Our main complaint remained the condominium condition.

We arrived early to warm up and then met our caddies, Mike and Jimmy, who added plenty of color and local insight. They were adept at finding wayward balls and shared stories about soaring home prices on the island. Because The Ocean Course is a walking course, caddies are required and prove invaluable. Our foursome included Neil Curran from Palm Beach Gardens, Florida; John Kelley from Philadelphia; my brother Gerry from Dallas; and myself.

Hole 4 is one of the tougher handicapped holes on the front nine. Its large green invites a mid-iron for the second shot. Unlike many windy days on The Ocean Course, we enjoyed relatively calm conditions on this hole and needed no major club adjustments. Our caddies quickly learned our games and improved their club recommendations as the round progressed. The hole presents little risk besides bunkers on the right and a path on the left. Neil carried the fairway and nearly found a hazard that cuts across the hole; I landed short but centered while Gerry and John found the bunkers. Neil’s approach to the green set up a long putt that saved par. The rest of us walked away with bogeys and a double bogey.

Hole 7 plays very differently when the wind howls, forcing players to decide on trajectory and the wind’s effect. On our calm day the fairway felt forgiving and the bunkers and mounding were manageable. The group bonded well—Neil found one of the bunkers but executed a confident recovery to return to play. The rest of us hit aggressive 3-woods, aiming directly at the green with confidence in the lack of wind. John overshot the green on his third shot but held the back collar; the others chipped in and the hole, a long par-5, became a turning point for our round.

Arriving at the ninth brings relief: another nine holes to rectify earlier mistakes. The fairway at No. 9 is large and welcoming, but a waste bunker skirts the entire left side and the right slopes away, ready to send balls rolling out of position. We hammered our drives—Gerry found the waste bunker and then took a wild bounce left that sent his ball out of play. Neil’s drive missed the central fairway bunker, while I found that bunker. John drove his best ball of the day, clearing the bunker and sitting in prime position for an approach. The green is slightly offset to the left, but Neil and I managed pars and left the group motivated to tackle the back nine.

Hole 14 is often called the most beautiful on The Ocean Course and by some, the most infuriating. The green sits elevated, and many players miss long, leaving a tricky uphill chip. Depending on the wind, you may need to add several clubs to reach the putting surface. On our day Neil secured par, John and I carded bogeys, and Gerry suffered a double.

By the 18th we were tired from walking, but the hole still demanded focus. Neil and Gerry followed pro advice, driving along the right side of the fairway. John and I ignored the guidance and found ourselves in a sandy mess left of the fairway. Neil and Gerry continued solid play; both missed the green but were close enough to chip for par and bogey. John and I struggled back into play and each carded double bogeys. After thanking our caddies, we relaxed with a drink and watched the ocean and a wedding on the putting green—an unforgettable setting on one of America’s premier courses.