The legacy of Lima’s poor surrounds much of the historic center, most visibly beneath the Church of St. Francis where the catacombs hold the remains of an estimated 75,000 people. After Francisco Pizarro founded Lima as the “City of Kings” in 1534, Spanish missionaries recruited destitute laborers to help build the church, promising a Christian burial in return. Catacomb tours are not for the faint of heart or those who dislike tight spaces, and guides warn visitors accordingly.
Despite that eerie introduction, the church’s story is closely tied to the cultural blend that defines Lima today. Far from a single, uniform place, this metropolis of about 9 million people is made up of 49 distinct distritos, each with its own character and attractions.
Start in downtown El Centro before sunset to get your bearings. This walkable district is packed with historic sites, lively street vendors and friendly locals. If the catacombs didn’t satisfy your curiosity, visit the Plaza de Armas and the stately Government Palace, where Pizarro once held court and a bronze fountain from 1651 still stands.
For modern comforts, dining and nightlife, the top neighborhoods are San Isidro and Miraflores. These contemporary suburbs sit above pale Pacific beaches and feature sleek high-rises, galleries, upscale boutiques and an energetic restaurant and bar scene concentrated along José Larco Avenue. Miraflores is also known for its inclusive atmosphere and is a favorite area of Lima’s LGBTQ+ community. For nightlife, venues such as Legendaris have become known as among the city’s trendiest destinations.
Lima’s culinary scene is exceptional. One standout is Restaurant Huaca Pucllana in Miraflores, set amid the ruins of a 1,500-year-old archaeological complex. The outdoor dining overlooks exposed adobe walls and a pyramid, dramatically lit after dark. Equally impressive are the Peruvian Creole seafood dishes, made with fresh catch from nearby waters and widely celebrated as some of the best in the country.
Barranco offers a contrasting, bohemian side of Lima and is the go-to district for late-night bars, art spaces and live music. For a relaxed evening with a view, Chala is an elegant option: the restaurant sits near the wooden Bridge of Sighs, offering a romantic Pacific backdrop ideal for cocktails and conversation.
Devote a couple of hours to the Larco Museum, housed in an 18th-century viceregal mansion built atop a seventh-century pre-Columbian pyramid. Its collection of 45,000 classified artifacts is one of the largest and most comprehensive collections of pre-Columbian art in the world, and the museum’s presentation and grounds rival major institutions.
No nighttime visit to Lima is complete without the Magical Water Tour at Parque de la Reserva. This 20-acre park in downtown features the world’s largest public fountain complex, with dozens of illuminated water features. Some fountains perform choreographed shows set to music, while others are interactive—visitors can walk through timed water rings and often get wet, so a change of clothes is recommended. After a visit to the catacombs, the playful spectacle of fountains provides a memorable, lighthearted cap to an evening in Lima.