It’s a beautiful evening and San Francisco hums with energy. Emerging from the BART station into the heartbeat of downtown, it feels like we’ve slipped effortlessly from Los Angeles into this vibrant city.
In truth, after finishing business in L.A., my family and I took a short Virgin America flight to the Bay Area. A quick 30-minute ride on Bay Area Rapid Transit brought us to Powell and Market streets, right in the center of the city. Ahead, Powell Street climbs steeply toward Fisherman’s Wharf; to the right, Market Street stretches toward the Ferry Building and the bay. Instantly, it’s clear we’re somewhere entirely different — a city with its own unmistakable identity.
San Francisco is singular, comparable to few American cities aside from New York. It rarely disappoints. With a thriving culture of art and innovation, an entrepreneurial spirit and an adventurous dining scene, the City by the Bay feels effortlessly cool. I hadn’t returned since my daughter was born, so I was eager to see how well San Francisco welcomes families and business travelers with kids in tow.
On our first day we headed straight for Ghirardelli Square. My 8-year-old expected a Willy Wonka–style fantasy, but Ghirardelli is really an upscale shopping area filled with boutiques, restaurants and several Ghirardelli ice cream shops. We peeked into the new Chocolatier Program area, where chocolatiers craft small batches on site instead of at the San Leandro factory. Then my daughter demolished a massive banana split. Who needs a factory tour when the treats are this good?
Fortunate to have clear skies (no fog or rain), we spent much of our time strolling along San Francisco’s scenic waterfront. Recent years have brought changes such as a new cruise terminal at Pier 27 and the relocaton of the Exploratorium to Pier 15.
Palace of Fine Arts © F11photo | Dreamstime.com
After nearly 44 years at the Palace of Fine Arts in The Presidio, the Exploratorium moved into a waterfront building with three times the space for interactive exhibits that inspire curiosity and lifelong learning. The new facility was built with sustainability in mind and aims to be one of the largest net-zero energy museums in the United States, earning LEED Platinum certification. It’s innovation brought to life.
We could have spent an entire day there. My daughter and her friend darted from exhibit to exhibit, eventually settling in the Tinkering Studio where student engineers helped them build scribble machines. “This is the best trip ever!” my daughter announced — and she meant it.
Leaving the Exploratorium, we walked to the Ferry Building along the Embarcadero. While it still functions as a ferry hub connecting neighborhoods around the Bay, the Ferry Building’s real draw is its marketplace, home to local artisans and purveyors who emphasize sustainability and high-quality ingredients.
We browsed numerous stalls, sampled cheeses from Cowgirl Creamery, tasted salami from Boccalone and enjoyed gluten-free pastries from Mariposa Baking Company that tasted anything but gluten-free. We lingered in the sunshine near the Bay Bridge, savoring our finds and buying extra treats to take with us.
Fisherman’s Wharf sign © Evantravels | Dreamstime.com
Another day took us to Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39. Fishermen’s Grotto’s narrow, covered walkway buzzed with people and a chorus of languages. Locals and visitors alike gather here for quick, casual meals, choosing fresh catches and waiting on the sidewalk for them to be prepared. A steel drum band played a lively tune while a man coaxed his partner into dancing — a small moment of joy in a bustling place.
When hunger won out, we ducked into Scoma’s, a San Francisco seafood institution for nearly fifty years. We wore plastic bibs and dove into a huge bowl of crab. It was messy and utterly worth it. We left with satisfied appetites and sticky, fishy fingers.
Alcatraz Island © Maciej Bledowski | Dreamstime.com
Offshore we could see the infamous Alcatraz Island. More than a million people visit the prison each year, walking its cold, damp corridors and imagining the lives of those once confined there. Currently, parts of the island host art installations for the “@Large: Ai Weiwei on Alcatraz” exhibit; the works — displayed in areas not usually open to visitors — examine human rights and freedom of expression, themes that resonate deeply within the prison’s history.
For lighter, family-friendly fun we visited Pier 39, a lively destination with shops, restaurants, a two-story carousel and the Aquarium of the Bay. The pier’s most famous residents, though, are the sea lions that lounge on the floating docks. A few appeared after the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, and by early 1990 their ranks had swelled dramatically. Watching them sunbathe and bicker is a must-do for many visitors.
Walking the city took its toll — my quads felt it after days of exploring, including the steep climb up California Street to Chinatown and Nob Hill. But tiring hikes pay off in San Francisco, where dining is a highlight. We enjoyed upscale Cantonese at Hakkasan one night and classic steaks at the French brasserie Gaspar another night. The pinnacle, however, was the fixed-price tasting menu at The Ritz-Carlton’s Parallel 37. Even my 8-year-old ordered adventurous dishes — seared octopus with green shiso sorbet, then rabbit loin with sautéed nettles and burgundy snails. Brave and curious — that kid surprised me.
On our last night back at a cozy boutique hotel, I noticed a card on the desk quoting Gene Fowler: “Every man should be allowed to love two cities, his own and San Francisco.” I like to think that sentiment includes women and children too — this city has a way of capturing the heart.
San Francisco Info to Go
San Francisco International Airport is about 13 miles south of downtown. BART trains into the city run regularly and cost roughly $9 per person one way from the airport. Renting a car is generally unnecessary — San Francisco’s hills and high overnight parking fees make driving less convenient. Within the city, public transit options include cable cars, historic streetcars, buses, taxis and ride-share services. The San Francisco CityPASS provides seven consecutive days of unlimited Muni transportation on trolleys, buses and historic cable cars, plus admission to several major attractions.
Hotels in San Francisco
Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco — Ideally located near the Financial District, Moscone Center and Union Square, the Four Seasons delivers attentive service and often offers welcome gifts for children upon arrival. 757 Market St. $$$$$
Mystic Hotel by Charlie Palmer — A charming boutique property and Chef Charlie Palmer’s first hotel project. The building is historic with smaller rooms and a vintage elevator; air-conditioning may be limited, but the location one block from Union Square is excellent. 417 Stockton St. $$$$
The Scarlet Huntington Hotel — Recently renovated with whimsical, eclectic décor, this historic Nob Hill hotel retains the stately Big 4 restaurant and remains a favorite among locals. 1075 California St. $$$$
Restaurants in San Francisco
Hakkasan — A trendy, upscale Chinese restaurant in an elegant second-floor space. Dishes tend to be smaller portions designed for sharing, while desserts can be indulgent. 1 Kearny St. $$$$
Parallel 37 — The Ritz-Carlton’s dining venue offers market-driven tasting menus that will delight food enthusiasts with carefully crafted seasonal courses. The Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco, 600 Stockton St. $$$$$
Scoma’s — A Wharf staple known for fresh seafood and classic San Francisco views. Pier 47 on Al Scoma Way $$$