Montenapo, the elegant new Italian restaurant located inside Renzo Piano’s New York Times Building, occupies a lofty space framed by towering glass walls that open onto a birch-tree atrium. Sleek and modern yet warmly inviting, the design blends cool steel and warm wood tones with accents of blue and cream. The restaurant also emphasizes Old World service, offering a welcoming reception often led by owner and manager Jozef Juck.
In the spring, Montenapo hosted 35 wine professionals who gathered to taste and evaluate 134 entries submitted to Global Traveler’s annual Wines on the Wing International Business Class Airline Wine Competition.
Judging wines requires a refined ability to discern subtle differences among similar bottles. After careful blind tastings of submissions from 27 airlines, the airline that emerged on top this year was Qatar Airways.
“We go to great lengths to make sure our passengers are afforded an appealing array of wines and Champagnes,” said Tony Hughes, Qatar’s vice president for the Americas. “We want to ensure that even the most discerning taste buds enjoy the perfect wine complement.”
Master of Wine James Cluer is the consultant responsible for assembling Qatar’s selection. He defines the structure of the wine list, gathers hundreds of samples and narrows them into thoughtful flights. “I sort through them to create flights of appropriate wines and then, at quarterly meetings, Erwan Robert, Qatar’s manager of in-flight product; Colin Boother, a general manager at an import company; and I taste the flights blind to avoid any prejudice related to label or price,” Cluer explained. “We often taste more than 50 wines to find one winner. On occasion we select none because none meet our requirements. I believe this strict approach is what makes our program stand out. We won’t accept a wine unless it is outstanding. We pay no attention to critics’ scores; instead we discuss how it will taste in the sky.” To validate that final criterion, the team re-tastes chosen wines aboard a flight.
Cluer’s role extends beyond selection. He ensures suppliers deliver wines in optimal condition, writes informative wine list descriptions for passengers, and trains onboard staff in proper service.
Qatar’s five entries collectively scored highest in the competition. Its Saint Clair Pioneer Block 18 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from New Zealand was the top-rated white wine. Judge Felicia Sherbert described it as “true to its type, a classic,” while Eric Woods called it “fresh, focused, with good acidity.” Qatar’s Berncasteler Riesling Kabinett 2007, Dr. H. Thanisch, also performed strongly, finishing second among whites; Don Dombrosky praised its balanced mouthfeel and subtle spice.
Finnair claimed second place overall, with several of its individual wines placing in the Top 10 lists for champagnes, whites and reds. “One of the important elements in our business-class concept is the wine we serve,” said Magnus Hannukainen of Finnair Catering. He added that while airlines are implementing cost-saving measures, price is not the primary factor in choosing wines. Instead, Finnair evaluates the wine styles preferred by its passengers and seeks wines that express their terroir and origins, resisting a narrow focus on points or price.
Close behind Finnair, Asiana Airlines finished third. Asiana takes a collaborative approach to selecting onboard wines: since 2004 the airline has organized “Creating a Beautiful Wine Culture with Asiana Airlines,” inviting sommeliers from around the world to conduct blind tastings among more than 130 wines. The sommeliers’ selections are then presented to Asiana customers, whose opinions help decide the final lineup. Asiana opens approximately 350,000 bottles of wine each year, and its careful selection process helped secure a top-three finish; the carrier also landed entries in the Top 10 lists for Champagne and for red wine.
Top Champagne honors went to LAN Airlines’ Henriot Souverain Brut NV. LAN’s sommelier, Hector Vergara—Latin America’s only master sommelier—curates the airline’s wine program. Judges called the Champagne “full on the palate, nervy and elegant,” and “toasty, full-bodied.”
The highest-ranked red wine in the competition was Alitalia’s Fornace di Cerreto Barbera d’Asti 2004. Alitalia’s sommelier sources wines from across Italy and presents them in blind tastings to a committee of food and wine professionals; the committee’s favorites are then served onboard. Judges praised the Barbera for its complexity, elegance and powerful, well-developed character.
Global Traveler also introduced a new category this year for North American airlines offering first-class or business-class service within the continent. Virgin America won the inaugural North America category, highlighting California producers with selections such as the top-scoring North America white wine, Artesa Chardonnay Reserve 2006. Among other North America category winners, American Airlines–North America took top sparkling wine honors with Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Carneros Brut NV, and Air Canada–North America scored top red with Tenuta Sant’Antonio Valpolicella 2005 from Italy.
The competition’s entries reflected a global range: wines originated from 15 producing countries. France led with 41 entries, including 15 Champagnes, followed by 26 wines from the United States—25 from California and one from Oregon—and 17 from Italy. Entries also came from Spain, Chile, South Africa, Australia, Austria and other regions, promising a diverse and enjoyable array of wines for passengers worldwide.
Participating Airlines
Air Canada
Air Canada–North America
Alitalia
ANA
American Airlines
American Airlines–North America
Asiana Airlines
Austrian Airlines
Brussels Airlines
Delta Air Lines
EL AL Israel Airlines
Emirates
Ethiopian Airlines
Etihad Airways
Finnair
Iberia Airlines
LAN Airlines
LOT Polish Airlines
Lufthansa
Qatar Airways
South African Airways
Swiss International Airlines
TAP
Thai Airways
US Airways
US Airways–North America
Virgin America
Top 10 Overall
1. Qatar Airways
2. Finnair
3. Asiana Airlines
4. LAN Airlines
5. Swiss International Airlines
6. Emirates
7. ANA
8. Iberia Airlines
9. US Airways
10. American Airlines
Top North America First Class/Business Class
TOP NORTH AMERICA AIRLINE Virgin America
TOP NORTH AMERICA AIRLINE SPARKLING WINE Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Carneros Brut NV, California (American Airlines)
TOP NORTH AMERICA AIRLINE WHITE WINE Artesa Chardonnay Reserve 2006, California (Virgin America)
TOP NORTH AMERICA AIRLINE RED WINE Tenuta Sant’ Antonio Valpolicella 2005, Italy (Air Canada)
Top 10 Champagnes and Other Sparkling Wines Airline
1. Henriot Souverain Brut NV LAN Airlines
2. Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut NV Emirates
3. Heidsieck & Co. Monopole Blue Top Brut NV American Airlines
4. Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV Asiana Airlines
5. Scharffenberger California Sparkling Wine Brut NV US Airways
6. Drappier Carte Blanche Brut NV ANA
7. Scharffenberger California Sparkling Wine Brut NV Delta Air Lines
8. Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Particulière Brut NV Brussels Airlines
9. Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Millésime 2003 Finnair
10. Jacquart Brut Mosaïque NV Ethiopian Airlines
Top 10 White Wines
1. Saint Clair Pioneer Block 18 Sauvignon Blanc 2008, New Zealand Qatar Airways
2. Berncasteler Riesling Kabinett 2007, Dr. H. Thanisch, Germany Qatar Airways
3. Line 39 Sauvignon Blanc 2007, California US Airways
4. Castelcerino Rocca Sveva Soave Classico 2007, Italy Finnair
5. Domaine Faiveley Mercury 2004, France Finnair
6. Pazo Señorans Albariño 2008, Spain Iberia Airlines
7. TRIPLE TIE
Chateau Julien Chardonnay 2007, California ANA
Recanti Chardonnay 2007, Israel EL AL
Jean-Claude Boisset Meursault 2006, France Etihad Airways
8. Rijk’s Private Cellars Chenin Blanc 2007, South Africa South African Airways
9. Château de Tracy Pouilly-Fumé 2007, France Emirates
10. Chiar di Luna Bianco di Merlot 2007, Angelo Delea, Switzerland Swiss International Airlines
Top 10 Red Wines
1. Fornace di Cerreto Barbera d’Asti 2004, Italy Alitalia
2. Les Auréliens 2006, Domaine de Triennes, France Swiss International Airlines
3. The Colonial Estate Explorateur Old Vine Shiraz 2006, Australia American Airlines
4. DOUBLE TIE
Coste delle Plaie Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2005, Italy Alitalia
Barton & Guestier Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007, France Ethiopian Airlines
5. Cline Cashmere 2006, California Delta Air Lines
6. TRIPLE TIE
Artesa Elements 2004, California Asiana Airlines
Ramón Bilbao Rioja 2006, Spain Brussels Airlines
Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino 2003, Italy Qatar Airways
7. Antinori Pian delle Vigne 2003, Italy Emirates
8. Haut de Valmoure Syrah 2007, France Air Canada
9. Château Malescasse 2003, France Finnair
10. Brancaia Tre 2006, Italy Swiss International Airlines
The Judging Process
Airlines with long-haul international business-class service were invited to submit two white wines, two red wines and one Champagne or sparkling wine currently on their international business-class wine lists, along with their wine lists. The new North America category followed the same rules for carriers offering first-class or business-class service within the continent.
Wines were coded and grouped into flights by type—so similar wines, such as Chablis or California Cabernet Sauvignon, were tasted together—and served in coded glasses. Judges received only the wine type, origin and, when appropriate, the vintage. If a bottle appeared flawed, a reserve bottle was opened. GT staff and professional assistants oversaw the tasting.
Each wine was scored on a modified Davis 20-point scale. Judges’ individual scores were added and averaged, and the averaged scores for each airline’s submissions were totaled. The airlines with the highest totals received the Wines on the Wing awards.
The Judges
Melissa Sutherland Amado is a wine consultant to private collectors and creative director at Italian Wine Merchants in New York.
Cesar Baeza is winemaster and co-owner of Brotherhood Winery in New York State, trained in Chile, France, Spain and California.
Rory Callahan is president of Wine & Food Associates and a graduate of UC Davis School of Viticulture and Enology.
Molly Choi is senior vice president of Cape Classics, a South African wine importer.
Jim Clarke is wine director of MEGU in Manhattan and a wine writer for several publications.
Roger Dagorn is a master sommelier and former wine director and maitre d’hôtel of Chanterelle in Manhattan.
Don Dombrosky has served as sommelier at the River Café in Brooklyn since 2002.
John Fanning is general manager of Accademia di Vino in New York with extensive wine-directing experience.
Barbara Frank is a consulting winemaker and regional marketing representative for Dr. Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars.
David Frieser is president of Beekman Liquors in Manhattan and a frequent wine lecturer.
Curtis Green is founder of TenFolks Enterprises, focused on wine education and marketing for African-American audiences.
David Gross is a restaurant wine specialist for Southern Wine & Spirits in New York State.
Karen King is sales manager at Winebow and former wine director at several acclaimed New York restaurants.
Mariko Kobayashi is wine director of Esca and has extensive sommelier and retail experience.
Harriet Lembeck is president of the Wine and Spirits Program and longtime educator in the wine trade.
Gilles Martin is winemaker and director of operations at Sparkling Pointe Winery on Long Island.
John McClement is wine and spirits director for All Weather Management, a multi-restaurant group.
David Milligan is president of David Milligan Selections, representing fine French producers.
Katherine Moore is general manager of Union Square Wines & Spirits in Manhattan.
Peter Morales is president of 57 Main Street Imports and founder of philanthropic programs supporting South African wine-region schools.
Michael Nelson is wine director of Gotham Bar and Grill and former head sommelier at Café Boulud.
Roman Roth is winemaker and general manager of Wölffer Estate on Long Island.
Patrick Séré recently retired from Dreyfus Ashby and remains active in the wine industry.
Robert Shack is owner of HB Wine Merchants/R. Shack Selections and Clos Robert Winery in Sonoma.
Alie Shaper is founder and winemaker of Brooklyn Oenology, the first urban winery in Brooklyn.
John Sheldon is a wine representative, founder of the New York Wine Tasting School and a wine consultant.
Felicia Sherbert is president of What’s My Wine? LLC and a member of several industry advisory groups.
Darrin Siegfried is owner of Red, White & Bubbly and wine director of Cucina in Brooklyn.
Nelson Stewart is vineyard manager at Karamoor Estate with more than 20 years of East Coast vineyard experience.
Bernard Sun is corporate beverage director for the Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant group.
W. R. Tisch produces wine-and-food events and previously served as editor of Wine Enthusiast.
Eric Woods co-owns Harlem Vintage and the Nectar wine bar in Harlem.
Michael Yurch is president and CEO of Sherry-Lehmann in Manhattan.
Eric Zillier is wine director at Alto Restaurant and a former sommelier at Veritas.
Eva Wassemiller Zorad is wine buyer and manager for September Wines & Spirits in lower Manhattan.