It was a dark and stormy night; rain drove in sheets—interrupted only by ferocious gusts that swept across the beach. It was early winter on the Maine coast, and I steered my car along twisting roads, seeking refuge from the tempest.
Sound familiar? I borrowed that opening—with a change of setting—from Victorian writer Edward Bulwer-Lytton’s 1830 novel Paul Clifford. I couldn’t resist. It matched the fierce weather my sister Nancy and I were trying to outrun as we headed up the New England coast for a girls’ spa weekend at Inn by the Sea.
About 15 minutes south of Portland, Inn by the Sea sits amid landscaped gardens overlooking a pristine, mile-long crescent beach in Cape Elizabeth. On that gray day our spirits rose when we rounded a curve and saw the inn’s warm lights glowing through the storm.
In summer the inn is a tranquil coastal retreat where guests relax in Adirondack chairs, enjoying cool drinks and manicured grounds. In winter, visitors bundle up for brisk walks along the winding boardwalk before returning to the cozy bar for a hot toddy and a bite to eat—or, like Nancy and me, slip into plush robes and head to the spa.
The Spa at Inn by the Sea occupies the inn’s lower level and is thoughtfully separated from the fitness center, a layout I appreciated. Too often hotels tuck spas beside noisy workout spaces, undermining the calm guests seek. Here, the spa feels intentionally serene.
When the elevator doors opened, we stepped into a reception area that truly felt like a cocoon of comfort. The spa is intimate, with just six treatment rooms, but its design maximizes the space: distinct relaxation areas and separate locker rooms for men and women help maintain a peaceful experience.
Nancy and I had booked the Crescent Beach Escape, a 165-minute package that includes a full-body scrub, a 60-minute massage, and a 60-minute facial. Embracing its seaside setting, the spa offers sea-inspired treatments that use marine-based products—seaweed, peptides, nutraceutical extracts, and pure essential oils.
We could have chosen the couple’s room, but preferred individual treatment rooms and agreed to meet in the relaxation salon between services to compare notes. Committing to nearly three hours of pampering instead of a single quick treatment allowed us to shift deliberately from daily chaos to a calm, restorative state.
After our treatments we lingered in the relaxation area, alternating between the experiential shower—where targeted jets eased out lingering tension—and the expansive steam room, filled with the soothing scent of eucalyptus. We only realized we’d spent enough time when our fingertips began to wrinkle from the steam.
We were glad to have reserved one of the inn’s 12 two-level spa suites, so the indulgence continued back in our room. The suite’s sophisticated palette of deep red, cognac, and charcoal complemented maple furnishings and locally commissioned artwork. Upstairs featured two double beds and a spacious bathroom with a heated floor, an air-jet tub, and a walk-in steam shower—perfect for extending the spa experience.
Inn by the Sea is eco-conscious. A multimillion-dollar renovation launched in 2008 strengthened the property’s green initiatives and produced a Silver LEED-certified spa. Sustainability measures include heating with biofuel, using Green Seal cleaning products, creating an on-site bird habitat with 22 nesting stations, installing recycled cork floors in the spa, using dual-flush toilets, and achieving carbon-neutral status through offsets—the first hotel in Maine to do so.
The green philosophy carries through to the kitchen. Executive Chef Mitchell Kaldrovich collaborates with regional purveyors to highlight local flavors and seasonal ingredients at the Sea Glass restaurant. He also works with local fishermen to find sustainable alternatives to over-fished species, delivering inventive seafood dishes that may introduce guests to options not yet common in supermarkets.
Inn by the Sea
40 Bowery Beach Road
Cape Elizabeth, ME 04107
tel 207 799 3134
www.innbythesea.com