With his spear leveled toward me, the tall Maasai warrior moved in slowly. At about two feet away he paused; his rugged face, streaked with red ochre, and his intense stare filled my viewfinder. When I eased the camera down, his tense jaw relaxed and a broad grin flashed, revealing gleaming teeth.
From warriors to beautiful dancers, Carnival International de Victoria brings together all kinds of entertainers. © Michael DeFreitas
Surprisingly, this Maasai encounter did not take place in a remote Kenyan village but during Carnival International de Victoria in the Seychelles. Each April, elaborately costumed performers from around the world converge on Victoria, the capital, to parade through the streets. The three-day celebration showcased more than 1,500 participants from 27 countries, including Chinese acrobats, Brazilian samba dancers, Himalayan musicians, Maasai tribesmen, Indonesian performers and even high-stepping U.S. cheerleaders.
“It’s called Carnival International because the world comes together,” says Alain St. Ainge, the Seychelles’ minister of tourism and culture. “When people gather here they set aside politics, religion and skin color and simply enjoy one another’s cultures.”
Like ivory-edged emeralds scattered across turquoise waters, the Seychelles redefines the idea of paradise. Spread over 155,000 square miles of the Indian Ocean just south of the equator, this small African nation sits between Africa and Asia and lives up to its reputation as an international crossroads. Its culture leans more toward African heritage than that of nearby Madagascar or Mauritius, reflecting a long history of diverse influences and settlers from many parts of the world.
Carnival is just one highlight among many. With 115 islands to choose from, visitors can find an island that matches their idea of bliss. Of the 42 permanently inhabited islands, Mahé, Praslin, La Digue, Cousine, Frégate and North Island attract the most visitors, each offering a distinct experience. The Seychelles is a favored escape for celebrities and royalty; Prince William and Kate Middleton honeymooned here in 2011.
Mahé, home to 90 percent of the nation’s population, is dominated by granite peaks draped in tropical rainforest and rimmed by postcard-perfect bays and white-sand beaches. As the most developed island, Mahé serves as the main entry point and transit hub for travelers heading to the outer islands.
The country’s cultural blend is most visible in Victoria. The local market overflows with produce, spices, textiles and crafts reflecting African, Asian and Indian Ocean influences. A small replica of London’s 1903 Houses of Parliament clock tower stands as a charming colonial-era landmark in the city.
Fresh produce at the market © Michael DeFreitas
Beyond the capital, luxury resorts line many of Mahé’s best beaches. For a quieter option, Anse Soleil on the southwest coast offers an intimate setting with a single beach bar, appealing to visitors seeking a low-key retreat.
Inland, Morne Seychellois National Park showcases Mahé’s interior. The park includes four vegetation zones, from coastal mangroves to the summit of Morne Seychellois, the island’s highest point at 2,970 feet. Established in 1979, the park’s network of trails leads to historic sites, sweeping viewpoints and unique plant and animal life.
From Mahé, many travelers take a one-hour ferry or a 20-minute flight to Praslin, the second-largest island. Praslin is known for upscale resorts, crystalline waters and Anse Lazio, a white-sand beach often listed among the world’s best. The island also hosts two UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Aldabra Atoll, the planet’s largest raised coral atoll and a sanctuary for giant tortoises, and the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve, home to roughly 6,000 coco de mer palms, whose enormous nuts are the largest in the world.
A short 30-minute ferry ride from Praslin brings you to La Digue, an unhurried island that looks like a page from a travel magazine. Soft white sands, dense tropical foliage and jade-green waters combine to create stunning scenery. Anse Source d’Argent, often photographed for its dramatic granite boulders and pale sand, is a favorite for visitors and photographers. More secluded beaches such as Grand Anse and Petite Anse on the southeast coast remain beloved hideaways.
La Digue’s main transport options are bicycles and ox-carts, giving the island a slow-paced, natural feel. Its secluded coves make ideal private getaways, while the Veuve Nature Reserve protects the rare black paradise flycatcher, a species with only about 100 individuals left. The island’s L’Union Estate includes an historic plantation and an open-air museum; a small group of century-old giant tortoises live on the grounds.
As a multi-island destination, the Seychelles offers a wide range of experiences and amenities to satisfy discerning travelers. “We welcome visitors,” Alain St. Ainge explains. “When people come to the Seychelles they bring elements of their own cultures, which enrich our own cultural mosaic.”
Seychelles Info to Go
Seychelles International Airport is on Mahé, about seven miles southeast of Victoria. Buses run from the terminal to Victoria’s main bus station every 20–30 minutes and take roughly an hour; fares to most resorts are about $1–2. Taxis from the airport to Victoria, resorts, or the ferry terminal cost around $7–10, and many hotels provide airport transfers. After a codeshare agreement with Etihad Airways, Air Seychelles reduced some long-haul routes; many international visitors now arrive via Abu Dhabi or Dubai, though Air Seychelles continues to operate services to gateways such as Geneva, Berlin, Bangkok and Cape Town. A domestic terminal adjacent to the international terminal offers plane and helicopter connections to neighboring islands.
Where to Stay in the Seychelles
Le Domaine de L’Orangeraie Nestled on a small point between pristine beaches, this Zen-inspired property of 55 villas and a spa offers a peaceful, intimate atmosphere. Anse Sévère, La Digue $$$$
Four Seasons Resort Seychelles Sixty-seven stilted, tree-house-style villas with spacious balconies perch on a forested hillside overlooking Petite Anse and the Indian Ocean. Petite Anse, Baie Lazare, Mahé $$$$
Raffles Praslin Seychelles Set above Anse Takamaka beach, this resort’s 86 villas and spa exemplify relaxed, luxurious island living. Anse Takamaka, Praslin $$$$
Restaurants in the Seychelles
Café Des Arts Located on Praslin’s beachfront, this stylish restaurant and gallery serves flavorful Seychellois dishes such as red snapper in passion fruit sauce. Anse Volbert, Praslin $$$
Chez Batista A thatched-roof restaurant on Mahé with a sand floor and ocean views, celebrated for its fresh seafood and lively Sunday buffet. Anse Takamaka, Mahé $$$
Lanbousir An intimate, open-air eatery on La Digue with a sand floor, offering Creole specialties like curried fish with coconut sauce and spicy mango salad. L’Union Estate, La Digue $$
Read more about the coco de mer palm trees.