I am wine tasting in Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most celebrated wine regions. Though vines surround me, I am not in a traditional bodega. Wrapped in a bathrobe, I taste at Santuario, the subterranean spa at Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine, a Relais & Châteaux hotel set in a restored 12th-century monastery.
Before noon, spa attendants gather as I swirl, sniff and sip. They take notes and, with each sample, present a matching vial of essential oil handcrafted at the spa. Part of Santuario’s innovative vinotherapy, this spa sommelier ritual connects guests to the property’s bucolic terroir and to its history: monks once tended the gardens, worked the vineyards and made wine here. The ritual also celebrates the contemporary wines produced in the hotel’s own extensive vineyards.
Spa sommelier ritual © LeDomaine
Far from a gimmick, the blind-tasting process helps therapists understand a guest’s mood and needs. A preference for a bold Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, can indicate a desire for a deeper massage, while a citrus-scented oil might suggest a need for mental clarity. Therapists discuss choices with guests, but the concept is that the senses often reveal needs the mind does not. Skilled therapists then translate those preferences into a more personalized treatment.
After several small tastings and inhalations, I select the wines and oils I prefer for my first spa treatment of the week. Each pairing is compelling. A bright Sauvignon Blanc is matched with an apricot-pit oil enlivened by yuzu and lemon, promising balance and alertness. A robust red pairs with almond and thyme oil for energizing effects. A macadamia and calendula infusion, brightened with local cedar and paired with Tempranillo, is designed to ease stress.
Guided by staff, I choose to feel energized rather than deeply relaxed, so I opt for the white wine—Spain’s most popular white vintage—and its citrus-infused oil to help vanquish jet lag. After back-to-back treatments that include cryotherapy techniques and the yuzu-lemon oil, I leave the spa renewed and ready to explore the hotel and its wine lands.
Reimagined by Swiss architect Marco Serra, LeDomaine opened in 2012. The 30-room monastery hotel, located in the heart of Castile-León and only 20 minutes from Valladolid, blends historic character with contemporary comfort. Its rural setting supports a calm, restorative atmosphere: fields of sunflowers, vineyards, rolling hills and timeless villages surround the estate. Romanesque and Baroque elements coexist with modern details—frescoes, columns and vaulted ceilings are accentuated by contemporary lighting, while panoramic windows and a flower-filled inner courtyard draw the Duero Valley landscape indoors.
Dining is an integral part of the experience. Refectory, a Michelin-starred restaurant, serves refined Spanish cuisine in the monks’ former dining hall. Vinoteca, a more casual bistro, offers tapas and small plates that can be tailored for spa guests seeking detox or lighter fare. Service is impeccable and discreet, delivering attentive care without excess.
Santuario, the hotel’s recently opened spa, is the refitted medieval friary’s highlight. Also designed by Marco Serra and located in the monastery’s old stables, the spa occupies 10,000 square feet underground. Large windows bring light into treatment rooms, the interior pool and corridors, creating a cocoon-like atmosphere framed by the gentle sound of falling water.
After the spa sommelier ritual, I spend time in Santuario’s spa suite—ideal for couples—with two massage tables, an oversized soaking tub, lounge sofas, a sauna and steam room. I enjoy my first treatments here and while away much of a day in quiet comfort.
The spa foyer complete with wine for tasting © LeDomaine
Over the week I immerse myself in well-being. I walk the vineyards with Sonal Uberoi, the spa’s conceptual designer, who blends Eastern and Western techniques to create a spa grounded in healing and transformation. “There’s a feeling to this land and to this place,” she says as we walk. “It exudes a therapeutic, natural energy.”
The treatments reflect that energy. The Grand Cru, a two-and-a-half-hour ritual, begins with a foot bath—an homage to how monks once welcomed visitors—followed by an exfoliation, an anti-aging body wrap and a massage that incorporates Santuario’s oenotherapy techniques. On another day I cycle along the Duero River and later indulge in The Diamond Rose Ritual, a luxurious treatment featuring Damask rose oil and diamond dust.
When my stay ends, I feel renewed: my skin glows, I’ve eaten from the garden and sipped wine made just minutes away, a violin quartet has played in the monastery church, and the hotel’s bees have produced honey for my breakfast. Packed with new vitality, I reluctantly return to urban life, taking with me the restored version of myself that LeDomaine helped create.
Santuario LeDomaine Wellness & Spa
Abadía Retuerta
LeDomaine
Sardón de Duero
Valladolid 47340
Spain
tel 34 983 680 368