I was miles off the coast of India in a small wooden fishing boat on the Arabian Sea when I first noticed we were being followed.
Manned by a shirtless captain and two local fishermen from Goa, our boat carried only the traditional Goan fishing gear—tiny hooks wound around wooden planks with thin weighted line—and two coolers: one packed with the day’s fresh catch and the other gradually emptied of ice-cold Kingfisher beers as the afternoon passed.
It wasn’t long before everyone on board sensed company. The captain slowed the low-powered engine to a stop, and we fell silent as a playful pod of dolphins encircled us, enjoying the last warm light before the evening cooled the Arabian Sea.
Those dolphins journey to Goa’s shores each year, but they’re not the only visitors drawn to this special place. Nearly 53,000 travelers arrive annually to savor the sun, sand and relaxed lifestyle this tiny Indian state offers.
For many affluent travelers, Goa is the beach destination of choice in India. Located on the southwestern coastline between Maharashtra and Karnataka, Goa is the country’s smallest state but among its wealthier ones.
Historically isolated by mountains and alluvial plains, Goa developed a distinct identity shaped by successive rulers, from the Silaharas and Rashtrakutas to the Bahmanis and Kadambas. The most enduring cultural impact, however, came from Portuguese rule beginning in 1510 and lasting until Dec. 19, 1961, when Goa was integrated into the Indian Republic.
Portuguese influence left a lasting mark on Goan daily life, including progressive civil codes that granted equal civic rights to men and women in legal and religious matters. Those laws fused with Goa’s diverse past to create an open, tolerant culture where Diwali and Christmas are celebrated with equal enthusiasm.
In the 1960s, Goa’s free-spirited atmosphere attracted hippies and open-minded travelers from around the world. For years the coastline was synonymous with trance parties, full-moon gatherings and smoky sunsets. In recent years, however, that scene has largely faded, leaving behind pristine, palm-fringed beaches that now cater to mainstream tourism and refined leisure.
By 2017, luxury hospitality had expanded significantly: more than 30 five-star hotels and resorts operate in Goa. A standout example is the Grand Hyatt Goa, set on 28 acres along Bambolim Bay with 313 guest rooms and seven dining venues. Its restaurants range from international fare to the authentic Indian kitchen at Chulha, where live tandoors, a chaat counter and regional cocktails create a lively dining experience.
The hotel’s Sunday Wicked Liquid Brunch has become a local favorite, featuring more than 20 food and beverage stations and live music. The drink selections include herb-infused spirits, coffee cocktails, detox juices and a pour-your-own station stocked with premium liquors, sparkling wines and local beer.
Basilica of Bom Jesus © AJAY BHASKAR | DREAMSTIME.COM
Beyond the resort, the region rewards exploration. A short drive along Old Goa Road reveals Indo-Portuguese heritage homes and tranquil countryside. Near the road’s end stands one of Goa’s few UNESCO World Heritage sites, the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which houses the remains of St. Francis Xavier and showcases baroque architecture in a serene setting.
Markets remain central to Goan life, and Mapusa Market is one of the largest in the state. Open daily except Sundays, Mapusa is particularly lively on Friday mornings when the number of vendors swells, filling lanes with fruits, spices, textiles, home décor and handmade instruments. For evening shopping and socializing, the Ingos Saturday Nite Bazaar in Arpora begins at 6 p.m., offering carpets, silver jewelry and designer clothing alongside a wide variety of street food.
Goan cuisine differs from mainland Indian food, emphasizing fresh seafood and a balance of sweet, tangy and spicy flavors with coconut, blistered chilies and bold spice blends. Local favorites include Bhatti Village, famed for its crab xec-xec (crab in coconut curry); Zeebop by the Sea, known for whole fish prepared in a fiery reichardo sauce; and Branco’s, which many regard as serving the best beef chili fry in the area. For sunset views and a lively crowd, Thalassa’s terrace in Vagator offers Greek-inspired dishes and panoramic vistas of the sea.
Young woman meditating on Agonda Beach © ASTRA490 | DREAMSTIME.COM
Nightlife continues to draw visitors, although the trance-era excesses have subsided. Modern venues offer distinctive experiences, from Club Cubana’s multi-level terraces and bars—often called the “nightclub in the sky”—to SinQ’s private club concept with a glass-walled microbrewery and reservation-only party suites.
Yet Goa’s appeal extends well beyond its clubs. Wellness, yoga and spa culture have grown substantially. Travelers come to practice sunrise tai chi on quiet shores, join yoga retreats at places like Ashiyana Yoga Retreat Village, or experience Ayurvedic therapies at Shamana Spa. For many, the real luxury is the ease of unwinding on beaches such as Agonda or Mandrem while enjoying holistic treatments and mindful activities.
Goa Info to Go
Goa International Airport (GOI) at Dabolim serves both international and domestic flights and lies approximately 18 miles from Panaji, the state capital. The airport handles numerous charter and scheduled flights daily, making Goa accessible for tourists and business travelers alike.
Where to Stay in Goa
GRAND HYATT GOA A five-star resort offering luxury accommodations, a full-service spa, multiple dining options and extensive amenities.
Bambolim, North Goa $$$$
THE LEELA HOTEL GOA A lavish property with 152 rooms, including Lagoon Suites and Royal Pool Villas, blending Indian ambiance with Portuguese design.
Mobor, Cavelossim, Salcette $$$$$
VIVANTA BY TAJ PANAJI A contemporary 170-room hotel situated in Panaji, favored by business travelers for its central location.
Off DB Bandodkar Road, Panaji $$$
Restaurants in Goa
BHATTI VILLAGE A family-run spot known for authentic Goan dishes made from a rotating, fresh menu.
Nerul Village $
A REVERIE A design-forward restaurant offering theatrical presentations and imaginative cuisine.
Calangute $$$
THALASSA A boho-chic restaurant serving Greek-inspired seafood with sunset views—popular with locals and visitors alike.
Vagator $$