Wherever I travel, I make a point of visiting a spa to relax and learn about the local culture—from Turkish bathhouses in İstanbul to hot springs in Japan or wellness retreats in Costa Rica. On a recent trip to Thailand, I spent several days at the Phulay Bay Spa, part of the Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Krabi, to experience the region through its wellness traditions.
Located less than two hours by plane from Bangkok, the resort sits on the Andaman Sea with views across hundreds of islands and is framed by towering limestone cliffs and lush jungle. Opened in 2010 as the first Ritz-Carlton Reserve property, Phulay Bay was conceived as a unique escape that highlights local character. The resort features 54 villas spread over 50 acres of landscaped gardens, ponds and a white coral beachfront. Thai architect Lek Bunnag blended teak, stone and painted stucco in shades of apricot and royal purple for the exterior, while interiors combine cream terrazzo, wood and glass with Lanna-style Thai art. Oversized beds, soaking tubs and large patio lounge beds create a sense of comfort and luxury, and many villas offer ocean views, private pools and secluded outdoor baths and showers that connect guests with nature while maintaining privacy.
The Phulay Bay Spa reflects the same design approach, merging modern lines with the natural setting. Polished teak walkways lead past flower-filled pools to a split-level aubergine building composed of three traditional Thai pavilions containing 11 treatment rooms. For my first treatment I booked the four-handed massage, reasoning that if a two-handed massage is indulgent, a four-handed experience would be exceptional. Having arrived early, I relaxed in the outdoor vitality pool that overlooks a green lagoon, then spent a little time in the relaxation salon reading until my attendants were ready.
Vitality pool © Christopher Cypert
Most treatment rooms use a soothing palette of beige and dark brown, with dim lighting, soft music and private showers to enhance the atmosphere. My session began with a gentle foot wash, then both attendants exfoliated my skin with a salt scrub—one working the right side of my body as the other worked the left. After a shower, the two masseuses worked simultaneously, coordinating their strokes so precisely it felt choreographed. The continuous, fluttering motion of their hands was so blissful I tried to stay awake to savor each moment. Two hours later I left the room feeling utterly relaxed, almost intoxicated with calm.
A few days later I returned for a two-hour Thai Herbal Infusion Ritual, an ideal recovery after a demanding jungle hike. The spa combines products from British brand ESPA and Thai company DIVANA with botanicals grown in the resort’s organic garden. Fresh lemongrass, for instance, lends fragrance to the Phulay Bay Scrub, helps exfoliate the skin and stimulates circulation. Local fruits, plants and herbs known for rejuvenating and healing properties enrich many treatments.
The Herbal Infusion Ritual used ginger, kaffir lime, lemongrass, mint, cloves, tamarind leaves and turmeric to invigorate the skin and muscles and restore energy flow. Like the previous treatment, the ritual started with a foot wash followed by a body scrub and shower. The massage that followed worked wonders on my sore muscles, and hot poultices filled with locally grown herbs were applied to my shoulders and back to ease tension. The session concluded with a mini facial and a scalp massage using oil infused with prai, a ginger-family rhizome traditionally used in Thailand to condition the skin.
Sitting in the spa garden with a cup of hot tea sweetened with local honey, I appreciated how powerful the resort’s home-grown botanicals can be. Ingredients such as lemongrass, ginger and mint not only flavor cocktails and curries, they also impart a healthy, luminous quality to the skin.
Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
111 Moo 3 Nongthalay, Muang
Krabi 81000 Thailand
tel 66 75 628 111
phulay-bay.com