If not for the Templeton Gap and the low passes in the Santa Lucia Range that allow cool, marine air from the Pacific to flow inland, California’s Paso Robles region would not support 168 wineries. Without that cooling influence the climate would be too hot for growing fine wine grapes, and without the substantial difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures the wines would lack the balance that defines many Paso Robles bottlings.
Located on the Central Coast roughly halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, Paso Robles is the third-largest wine appellation in the United States yet still feels like a region many wine lovers have yet to fully explore. Pioneers such as Jerry Lohr helped put the area on the map decades ago; his estate and others demonstrate that Paso Robles can produce consistently polished, high-quality wines. More recent wineries tend to be smaller operations without nationwide distribution, but many offer direct sales through their websites or tasting-room experiences for visitors.
The region’s generally temperate climate still leans warm, which favors red varieties. About three-quarters of Paso Robles production is red wine, with Zinfandel and Rhône- and Bordeaux-style blends among the most prominent expressions of the area’s terroir.
On a recent visit I spent several days tasting across the region. Below are several wines that stood out for their quality and sense of place.
Ancient Peaks Winery Oyster Ridge 2009 ($50) is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Malbec from a vineyard noted for oyster fossils in the soil, lending an intriguing mineral dimension.
Caliza Companion 2010 ($48) is a forthright, balanced blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah that shows ripe fruit and structure.
Herman Story Wines’ On The Road Grenache 2010 offers bright, exuberant fruit and berry notes, while the Nuts & Bolts Syrah 2010 is deeply flavored and intense (each $42).
Linne Calodo Cellars’ Rising Tide 2007 ($45) is a full-bodied, dark Rhône-style blend with concentrated flavors and depth.
Vortex Zinfandel 2010 ($38) from Peachy Canyon Winery pairs classic Zinfandel richness with Petite Sirah and Malbec for added intensity and structure.
Pomar Junction Vineyard and Winery’s Viognier ($25) is dry, aromatic and minerally, a refreshing white that reflects cooler site influence.
Night Watch 2008 ($50) from Sextant Wines delivers a savory, satiny blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Tempranillo, with layered flavors and smooth texture.
Silver Horse Winery’s Tempranillo 2010 ($38) is firm yet inviting, showing classic dark fruit and savory notes.
Steinbeck Vineyard & Winery produces a Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($45) that features rich dark cherry fruit balanced by a touch of pepper and oak-derived complexity.
Paso Robles continues to evolve, with established producers and newer, small-scale vintners alike contributing distinctive wines that reflect the region’s warm days, cool nights and varied soils. For wine lovers seeking ripe, expressive reds and characterful whites, Paso Robles offers an intriguing combination of quality, variety and value.