The luxuriant slopes of MAUI are a million shades of green. I’m on the island’s western side, immersed in the vivid emeralds of Iao Valley State Park, where the Iao Needle rises 2,250 feet toward the sky. Once an altar for indigenous communities, this natural rock pinnacle now invites hikers — like my husband and me — to walk the trails and form personal connections with the landscape.
Hawaiian legends recall how the demigod Maui lassoed the sun and slowed it so there would be ample daylight for planting and harvesting. For visitors seeking rest and relaxation, that legend translates into long, sun-filled days to explore and savor the island’s beauty.
We timed our visit to coincide with the return of humpback whales that spend part of the year in Hawaiian waters. Early one morning we join a whale-watching cruise with Pacific Whale Foundation, a research and education organization running seasonal eco-tours from Ma’alaea Harbor, north of Lahaina. Accompanied by a marine naturalist and a small group of fellow whale watchers, we board an eco-friendly catamaran and cross the channel toward Lana‘i.
Within minutes the naturalist spots a mother humpback and her young calf a short distance from the bow. The calf was born after the pod’s recent 3,500-mile migration from near Alaska. For two hours we watch the baby play in calm water while two adult males display energetic, competitive behaviors designed to win the female’s attention.
The males put on acrobatic, graceful leaps and sometimes fierce jostling, but they ultimately fail to sway the mother. Even amid Maui’s romantic reputation, not every courtship finds success.
After leaving the whales to their own affairs, we return to shore, change clothes, and set out for the legendary Hana Highway.
The road unravels ahead like a ribbon of asphalt, winding from the small town of Pāʻia to Hana along Maui’s eastern shore. Early light softens the landscape and casts gentle shadows along the route. Travelers have counted hundreds of curves and dozens of narrow bridges between Pāʻia and Hana; as Highway 360, the road’s snaking character grows more pronounced and the scenery more intimate.
Hana Highway Bridge at Upper Waikani Falls © CHRIS CURTIS | DREAMSTIME.COM
On the ocean side, a short turnout leads to the historic Kaulanapueo Church, built in 1853 and a reminder of the missionary era. Not far beyond Kailua, a string of small bridges leads into the Waikamoi Bamboo Forest. The parking area is quiet, so we leave the car and follow the short loop trail through the shade and rustle of bamboo.
Back on the road, we notice the Halfway to Hana sign near the Garden of Eden Arboretum & Botanical Garden. A nearby banana bread stand tempts us. We sample slices and buy a still-warm loaf made from small, sweet apple bananas grown on the island, tucking it into our picnic bag for later.
About four miles before Hana, we detour to Kahanu Garden, part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden. The 500-acre property includes a broad stand of breadfruit trees and a thriving collection of Polynesian plants. It’s also home to the Hale o Pi’ilani Heiau, one of the largest sacred ruins in the Pacific. Archaeologists link this site to Maui’s royal Pi’ilani family, whose 16th-century achievements included building a paved trail that once circled the island.
The next day we trade car travel for horseback riding at Ironwood Ranch in Napili. Riding through pineapple fields and into a misty valley, we experience a quieter tempo as hooves brush the grass and tropical birds provide a natural soundtrack.
Napili Bay © STEVENGAERTNER | DREAMSTIME.COM
That evening we board a moonlight catamaran with Trilogy Excursions. The sails fill with a steady breeze as we move into deeper water. Under a darkening sky, the gentle slap of water against the hull and the warm island air set a relaxed mood. We sip fruity drinks while stars emerge above the shoreline cliffs and the Hawaiian moon rises over the horizon.
By the time we return to the dock I’ve imagined leaving everything behind to live under palm trees by the sea, eating fresh mango and papaya every night. The scent of frangipani drifts through the air as we walk away, and for a moment the dream feels within reach. Reality, however, returns quickly: I wonder whether I could trade shoes for shells, and I’m certain my husband would insist on a refrigerator to keep the Champagne properly chilled.
Maui Info to Go
Kahului Airport handles commercial flights from the U.S. mainland and other Hawaiian islands. The airport sits about three miles east of Kahului town between Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. Ground transportation options include taxis, Maui Bus and a shuttle service operated by Roberts Hawaii. The shuttle sells tickets at the baggage claim counter from early morning through the last flight, and Maui Bus departs regularly from marked stops outside arrivals. Rental car counters are accessible just beyond baggage claim, and most major agencies serve the airport.
Where to Stay in Maui
KA’ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL With 11 acres of tropical gardens and a prime spot on Kā’anapali Beach, this traditional hotel features a whale-shaped pool and daily cultural activities: hula lessons, garden walks, Hawaiian language sessions, ukulele classes and nightly hula performances. 2525 Kā’anapali Parkway, Lahaina
THE PLANTATION INN A short walk from Lahaina Harbor and Front Street’s shops, this adults-only bed-and-breakfast offers historic plantation architecture, an outdoor pool, and a peaceful, intimate atmosphere. 174 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina
THE RITZ-CARLTON, KAPALUA Set on a secluded stretch of Kapalua coastline, this luxury resort includes two golf courses, a full-service spa, multiple dining options, and a wide range of accommodations including Club Level rooms. 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua
Restaurants in Maui
ALOHA MIXED PLATE A longtime Mala Wharf favorite with daily service and a rotating Poke of the Day, plus vegetables sourced from the restaurant’s farm. 1285 Front St., Lahaina
MAMA’S FISH HOUSE Family-owned for decades, this restaurant keeps a classic Hawaiian ambiance and serves fresh-caught fish delivered daily by local fishermen. 799 Poho Place, Pāʻia
THE MILL HOUSE Situated with views of the West Maui Mountains, this restaurant focuses on farm-driven cuisine and craft cocktails made with organic ingredients like sugarcane. 1670 Honoapiʻilani Highway, Waikapu