Executive chef Ingrid Funes of Cusp Dining & Drinks in La Jolla, Calif. learned to cook in her mother’s Salvadoran restaurant and refined her skills over years in professional kitchens. Those early lessons drew the attention of chef Thomas Keller and now underpin the inventive, ingredient-driven menus at Cusp, where Southern California’s coastal bounty is showcased with clarity and elegance.
Signature dishes are both imaginative and beautifully presented. Standouts include apricot-glazed crispy cauliflower served with marinated charred vegetable couscous and chimichurri yogurt; pan-seared scallops accompanied by coconut black rice, edamame, grilled corn and a Thai red curry sauce; and seasonal seafood preparations such as the Chef’s Choice Fish paired with udon noodles, baby bok choy, hon shimeji mushrooms and a creamy roasted garlic soy sauce.
Cusp serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, and complements its food with a thoughtfully crafted cocktail list. Notable cocktails include the Peach & Sprig, featuring rosemary-infused Fugu Vodka, Lillet and peach liqueur, and the Never Forget, made with Milagro Reposado, fresh lime, agave, Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur and fresh basil.
Sommelier Dawn Schnitzer is on hand to guide diners through the cocktail and wine offerings. During a recent visit to Cusp, we spoke with her about pairing wines with food and about the anxiety some guests feel about ordering the “wrong” wine.
Global Traveler: What should someone who prefers white wine do when ordering a steak, especially if they worry about reactions from dining companions or staff?
Dawn Schnitzer: Strict wine-pairing “rules” have loosened as cuisine has become more diverse and personal. The goal of pairing is balance and enhancement: food and wine should complement one another. Most importantly, choose what you enjoy. Personal preference matters more than rigid conventions.
GT: Are there practical guidelines to follow?
Schnitzer: Yes. If you crave fish but generally drink red, or you want a steak but find many reds give you a headache, you still have many good options. Consider the following:
© Peter Bajnoci | Dreamstime.com
Focus on how the dish is prepared. Is the fish grilled or poached? Is the meat marinated or simply seasoned? What sauces accompany the dish? How much fat or spice is present? Those factors determine the dominant flavors and the “weight” of the plate. As a rule of thumb, match the weight of the wine to the weight of the meal: lighter wines with lighter fare, fuller wines with richer dishes.
GT: Can you give a concrete example?
Schnitzer: Certainly. A grilled or pan-seared fish carries more body than a delicate poach; a light-bodied, low-tannin Pinot Noir can work nicely with many grilled fish dishes, depending on the sauce. Conversely, a well-marbled cut of beef pairs well with a fuller, oak-influenced Chardonnay that mirrors the richness and fat of the meat. Many California Chardonnays offer creamy, buttery textures with enough acidity to balance fat, making them a surprising and satisfying match with certain cuts.
GT: Any firm rules to observe?
Schnitzer: The main exception to common pairing ideas is spicy food. High-alcohol, tannic wines tend to amplify heat and can introduce bitterness or astringency that overwhelms the dish. For spicy preparations, choose sweeter, fruit-forward whites such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer, which soothe heat and preserve flavor balance. If you prefer red wine, look for low-alcohol, low-tannin, fruit-forward styles—Beaujolais or Merlot are approachable alternatives and good paths to explore beyond Pinot Noir.
Ultimately, pairing should enhance enjoyment. Ask your server or sommelier for guidance based on the dish and your preferences, and don’t be afraid to try combinations that suit your palate rather than conforming strictly to tradition.