Florida Keys Retreat: Discover Laid-Back Island Charm

The Florida Keys remain a celebrated escape for travelers craving a tropical retreat: endless water vistas, swaying palms and warm trade winds. This 125-mile chain of islands extends from just south of Miami to Key West and sits between three bodies of water—the Atlantic Ocean, Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico.

 

Henry Flagler, often called the “inventor of modern Florida” for establishing tourism as a cornerstone of the state’s economy, extended his Florida East Coast Railway’s Over-Sea Railroad from Miami to Key West in the early 1900s. After a 1935 hurricane destroyed the railroad, the Florida Keys Overseas Highway was built along the former rail route and completed in 1938. Stretching roughly 113 miles and connecting the islands via 42 bridges, the road—often called the Highway That Goes to Sea—was designated an All-American Road in 2009. Driving the Overseas Highway is one of the best ways to experience the entire island chain.

 

More than 3.9 million visitors spent two days or more in the Florida Keys in 2021. Given the destination’s popularity and its sensitive environment, local initiatives emphasize conservation. The Keys to Sustainable Travel program encourages both residents and visitors to support preservation through voluntourism, choosing ecotours, and visiting protected natural areas.

 

The Florida Keys are commonly described in five distinct regions, each with its own character. Below is an overview of those regions and what to expect when you relax in the southernmost reaches of the continental United States.

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KEY LARGO

Known as the “Dive Capital of the World,” Key Largo is the first major island you reach when heading south from Miami and offers exceptional underwater experiences. Divers and snorkelers of all levels will find vibrant coral, schools of tropical fish and clear water at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, the nation’s first underwater preserve.

More experienced divers often explore the USS Spiegel Grove, an intentionally sunk vessel that has become a thriving artificial reef. Over time, coral and marine life have transformed the ship into a habitat that attracts groupers, tropical fish and other sea creatures.

 

ISLAMORADA

Islamorada is renowned for sportfishing and is often called the “Sportfishing Capital of the World.” Backcountry fishing and saltwater fly-fishing have deep roots here. Expert captains navigate the Atlantic, Florida Bay and the offshore Gulf Stream to target seasonal species such as mahi-mahi, sailfish, kingfish, tuna, wahoo and marlin. The surrounding waters are also ideal for standup paddling, kiteboarding, snorkeling and scuba diving.

 

MARATHON

Built as part of Flagler’s railroad construction—workers famously said, “This is getting to be a real marathon!”—Marathon covers about 23 miles and is a family- and boating-friendly stretch of the Keys. Hawks Cay Resort is a popular place to stay for families and groups.

Perhaps the most iconic spot in Marathon is the Seven Mile Bridge, one of the world’s longest segmental bridges. Its 2.2-mile Historic Old Seven Mile Bridge has reopened for walking, running and cycling. Beneath the bridge lies Pigeon Key, once home to railroad workers; its historic buildings and education center are well worth a visit.

 

LOWER KEYS

The Lower Keys, often called the Natural Keys, invite travelers to slow down and explore wildlife and scenic parks. This region includes two national wildlife refuges—the National Key Deer Refuge and the Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge—along with Bahia Honda State Park, known for its sandy beaches and clear water.

Just before reaching Key West, Stock Island offers an intriguing mix of commercial shrimping activity and a vibrant arts community, where painters, sculptors and other artisans create and exhibit their work.

 

KEY WEST

Key West, also known as the Conch Republic, is the southernmost city in the continental United States. Its relaxed, tropical atmosphere has inspired writers and artists such as Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams and Jimmy Buffett. With a strong Bahamian and Cuban influence, Key West also hosts the largest historic district of wood-frame buildings in the country; many have been converted into inns, galleries and restaurants like The Gardens Hotel and Blue Heaven.

From historic landmarks to lively bars and daily sunset celebrations, Key West welcomes visitors with a carefree spirit and a variety of cultural and recreational offerings.

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INFO TO GO

The Florida Keys are served by two main airports: Miami International Airport, about 60 miles north of Key Largo and offering hundreds of daily arrivals, and Key West International Airport at the chain’s southern tip, with direct flights from a variety of U.S. cities. Car rentals, taxis and rideshare services are available throughout the Keys. Addresses along the Overseas Highway are commonly identified by mile markers, which are useful reference points when traveling the islands.

 

LODGING

Bungalows Key Largo

This adults-only, all-inclusive resort sits on 12 acres. Each of its 135 private bungalows features an outdoor soaking tub, garden shower and a veranda perfect for watching sunrise and sunset.

99010 Overseas Highway, Key Largo
$$$$$

 

The Capitana

This waterfront boutique hotel offers elegantly appointed guestrooms, spacious suites and private cottages, plus a small beach area for guests to enjoy.

2401 N. Roosevelt Blvd., Key West
$$$$$

 

Sunset Key Cottages

Set on a private island just off Key West, Sunset Key Cottages offer secluded cottages, a white-sand beach, notable dining options and a rejuvenating spa.

245 Front St., Key West
$$$$$

mahi mahi

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DINING

Azur Restaurant

Located in Old Town Key West, Azur serves Mediterranean-inspired cuisine in a relaxed yet refined setting, just a short walk from Duval Street.

425 Grinnell St., Key West
$$$$

 

Chef Michael’s

This restaurant emphasizes fresh local fish, steaks and vegetarian dishes. Ordering lionfish supports efforts to reduce this invasive species that threatens local reefs.

81671 Overseas Highway, Islamorada
$$$$

 

Latitudes

For a memorable fine-dining experience, reserve a table at this award-winning, open-air restaurant and watch the sun sink into the Gulf while enjoying sophisticated cuisine.

Sunset Key Cottages, 245 Front St., Key West
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