My husband and I rarely repeat vacations, but Colorado Springs is an exception. Our first visit—attending Cloud Camp with views of 14,000-foot Pikes Peak—felt both romantic and rustic, capturing the spirit of the Old West. Cozy log cabins perched high on Cheyenne Mountain nestle among fragrant pines and rustling aspens, while the stone-and-timber main lodge invites lingering meals and conversation around a long banquet table.
We left wanting to return immediately, but life intervened. When our son Jimmy was born just as the pandemic began, he spent much of his early years outdoors. That upbringing fostered an adventurous streak that felt equal parts nurture and nature. We wondered whether Colorado Springs would enchant him as it had enchanted us—or whether it had changed in the years since our last visit.
© Carley Thornell
The answer: it’s even better. More air carriers at Colorado Springs Airport mean more flight options and often lower fares. The city’s youthful energy—long fueled by the presence of the U.S. Air Force Academy—has intensified with new residents drawn to an active, outdoor lifestyle. Since our last trip, Colorado Springs added the Ford Amphitheater, an 8,000-seat open-air music venue, and a new ADA-accessible Pikes Peak Summit Visitor Center, an elegant structure that integrates into the mountain landscape. Improvements at the Air Force Academy, including the striking Cadet Chapel and the developing Hosmer Visitors Center with the new Hotel Polaris, further emphasize the city’s aviation history. Hotel Polaris showcases aviation-inspired design, themed dining, and even flight simulators.
We chose a different kind of adventure this time: fly-fishing at The Ranch at Emerald Valley. Jimmy’s first cast and pony ride awaited after winding up Old Stage Road, a mostly unpaved route that felt like a step back in time. Unlike the miners and pioneers who traveled these valleys by horse or wagon, we enjoyed a comfortable shuttle ride to the ranch.
Set within 100,000 acres of Pike National Forest, the ranch is the ultimate secluded getaway that pairs rustic charm with thoughtful amenities. Cell service disappeared early in our 40-minute drive, and guests rely on the lodge WiFi for outside connections. With no nearby restaurants within walking distance, the ranch operates on an all-inclusive model that centers the stay around shared meals and activities.
We were welcomed with hot cookies and barista-made drinks—available with a spirited addition from the lodge’s Olde Swan Tavern. Meals at the lodge are anything but frontier fare: locally sourced three-course lunches and dinners featuring mountain trout and desserts made with fresh raspberries from the surrounding fields filled our plates.
© Carley Thornell
At night we slept soundly in one of 10 preserved log cabins updated with modern comforts—gas fireplaces, spa-style showers and radiant bathroom floors—yet intentionally lacking televisions so guests can fully connect with the outdoors. Over three days we embraced a host of “firsts” for our preschooler.
Jimmy’s face lit up when he climbed onto a pony for the first time, expertly guided by patient ranch hand Piper. I joined a longer, wooded trail ride in a small group. One of Emerald Valley’s strengths is its intimate scale: fewer guests mean activities such as archery, mountain biking and kayaking are tailored to each person’s skill level.
That personalized attention made Jimmy’s first fly-fishing lesson especially memorable. His instructor Emiliano took a gentle, big-brother approach—rigging a child-sized rod, demonstrating a careful cast, and encouraging minimal disturbance to the water. Within minutes, Jimmy landed a foot-long rainbow trout and watched its shimmering scales before Emiliano released it. He caught several more fish that afternoon and couldn’t stop smiling.
“Can we do it again, Mom?” he asked.
“We can go fishing at home, buddy,” I said.
“No, come back here,” Jimmy insisted. “I love the ranch.”
It was obvious he had fallen for Colorado—hook, line and sinker—just as we had years earlier.
LODGING
Hotel Polaris
Aviation enthusiasts will enjoy this new 375-room property associated with the Air Force Academy’s visitors complex. The hotel features flight simulator experiences with 220-degree HD wraparound screens and authentic aircraft controls.
8989 N. Gate Blvd.,
Colorado Springs
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Kinship Landing
A locally owned boutique hotel in the heart of the city offering mountain views, regional art, a casual café/bar and social gathering spaces like a greenhouse. It’s a good pick for travelers who enjoy a friendly, community-oriented stay.
415 S. Nevada Ave.,
Colorado Springs
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The Ranch at Emerald Valley
A refined rustic escape with log cabins, radiant heating and gas fireplaces. All-inclusive rates cover meals, drinks and unlimited activities such as fly-fishing and horseback riding for a true outdoor immersion.
7855 Old Stage Road,
Colorado Springs
$$$$$
DINING
Four by Brother Luck
Chef Brother Luck blends influences from the Four Corners region—Western European, Spanish Colonial, Native American and Latin American—into creative dishes like hominy tahini with pueblo chile vinaigrette and blue cornbread with wojapi berry sauce.
321 N. Tejon St.,
Colorado Springs
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Grand View at the Garden of the Gods
Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the iconic red sandstone formations while the menu focuses on fresh, Colorado-sourced ingredients. It’s an elegant spot for memorable dining and wine selections.
3320 Mesa Road,
Colorado Springs
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Restaurant 1858
Located near Seven Falls, this restaurant offers frontier-inspired dishes such as rainbow trout, bison burgers and wild boar green chili. Try to snag an outdoor table at the waterfall’s base for a dramatic meal.
1045 Lower Gold Camp Road,
Colorado Springs
$$$
© Carley Thornell
INFO TO GO
Colorado Springs is about an hour’s drive from Denver, and increased air service has improved access and pricing. Since 2021, carriers such as Sun Country, Avelo and Southwest have added flights to Colorado Springs Airport, joining United, American and Delta. Ground transfers are convenient, with resort shuttle services available at baggage claim to connect travelers to major properties.