Even then, the Esterházy estate in Burgenland, in eastern Austria near the Hungarian border, was known for producing excellent wines. More than two centuries later, Esterházy wines are now available in the United States, offering American wine lovers a chance to understand why Haydn sometimes accepted wine instead of cash.
Esterházy’s range spans several categories, highlighting both native Austrian varieties and international grapes. In the Classic category, their Zweigelt exemplifies Austria’s most widely planted red grape. Zweigelt was created in 1922 when Dr. Zweigelt crossed two existing varieties, and it yields wines that are approachable yet refined. Esterházy’s 2009 Zweigelt ($26) is quietly elegant—well-knit, fresh, fruity and agile on the palate.
Among the Estate range, Grüner Veltliner stands out as Austria’s signature white wine, made from the indigenous grape of the same name. Esterházy’s 2010 Grüner Veltliner ($29) shows a tropical-fruit aroma paired with a mineral-driven, inviting palate. Another Estate bottling blends 80 percent Blaufränkisch—one of Austria’s prominent red varieties—with 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2009 version ($33) is vibrant and spicy, lively and full-bodied, marrying Austrian character with international structure.
Esterházy’s Tesoro represents the winery’s move toward international varieties and higher-end blending. The 2008 Tesoro ($86.50) mixes 60 percent Merlot with 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon to produce a compelling wine with an intense bouquet, layered flavors and excellent balance. It’s an elegant, well-crafted example of a premium estate blend.
On the sweet end of the spectrum, Esterházy’s Trockenbeerenauslese Cuvée 2008 is a rare and exquisite dessert wine. Aromas of ripe peach and apricot lead to a luscious, honeyed body; concentrated sweetness is kept lively by bright acidity, making the wine dessert-like yet balanced. At $57 for a 375 ml bottle (half a standard bottle), it is not inexpensive, but its depth and pleasure make it a worthwhile indulgence.