Another breaded sardine slips off the brightly patterned ceramic plate and lands on the floor. It’s the second one so far, but two women at the next table act as if they don’t notice, and the waiter — replacing the bread basket — politely looks away.
I’m misjudging distances with the tip of my fork, likely a combination of excellent wine, dazzling sunshine and a general lack of sleep. I wait for my husband, James, to make a witty remark about velocity and mass as they relate to appetizers, but he’s just spilled his wine and can’t muster the energy.
No harsh judgments: we’re not usually this muddled. We’ve come to linger in Marbella, a stunning seaside town on the Costa del Sol, following a hectic business trip. Long late suppers, early mornings and days of relaxing sunshine have left us pleasantly drained.
After leaving the café, we stroll along the waterfront promenade to the Paseo de la Alameda, a broad cobblestone pedestrian park lined with fountains, greenery and benches decorated with ceramic tiles. The avenue runs perpendicular to the seaside Avenida del Mar and faces the Sierra Blanca mountains to the north. Ten cast-bronze Salvador Dalí sculptures dot the route, which leads directly into Marbella’s Old Quarter.
Potted plants line narrow alleys throughout Marbella. © Stephenjohnson | Dreamstime.com
Among whitewashed walls strung with bougainvillea, the scent of citrus fills the air. Orange trees line the plazas; they were planted centuries ago to help freshen the atmosphere. The street plan — crafted by skilled Moorish builders — cools the city: narrow streets and alleyways channel sea breezes inward.
Outside the ancient walls that once enclosed the town, silkworm cultivation thrived. Portions of those walls remain, alongside structures from different eras: remnants of an Arab castle; the Renaissance chapel Capilla de San Juan de Dios; the Baroque Church of Santa María de la Encarnación; and the Hospital Bazán, built in Baroque and Mudéjar styles. The former hospital now serves a cultural purpose as the Museum of Contemporary Spanish Engravings.
We pause before the Ermita del Santo Cristo de la Vera Cruz to admire the bell tower roof, covered in glazed ceramic tiles that lend it a cheerful tilt. As we wander, James notes that while domestic buildings line the streets in orderly rows, churches sit at odd angles. Over tapas and chilled cava at a small café, we learn why: many churches in the Old Quarter were originally mosques built to face Mecca. Under Catholic rule, the mosques were razed and churches erected on the same footprints, with entrances still oriented for Muslim prayer.
Returning toward the seafront promenade, we turn to admire the peaks to the west, sharp against the late-afternoon sun. The mountains are a key reason the Costa del Sol enjoys mild weather year-round; their limestone ridge shields the coast from cold northern winds.
In the early 20th century, visitors began to recognize Marbella’s beauty and resort potential. By 1926, two hotels had opened. In 1943, the Marquis of Ivanrey, Ricardo Soriano, arrived, attracting European aristocrats and wealthy travelers. While other resorts saw seasonal dips, Marbella’s climate kept the crowds coming — heiresses, princes and jetsetters among them. Today the area offers 18 golf courses and numerous acclaimed restaurants, making it easy for business travelers to extend their trips and bring family along.
Marbella beachfront resorts © Artur Bogacki | Dreamstime.com
We flag a taxi and head to the historic Marbella Club Hotel, a legendary address where a stretch of ancient Roman roadways sits within the grounds. Once the private estate of Prince Alfonso von Hohenlohe, it was converted into a boutique hotel in 1954 and continues to attract celebrities and well-traveled guests. We find a table at MC Beach, a blue-and-white oasis opening onto white sand a few steps away, and unwind over seared tuna and grilled lobster.
The next day we tear ourselves from Marbella’s beaches and take a taxi to Málaga, birthplace of Picasso. The short trip feels almost like a pilgrimage for James. We quickly find an alabaster Renaissance building with a central open-air courtyard housing an impressive collection from the Picasso family. The museum showcases the full range of Picasso’s styles, from realism to the cubist works that made him famous.
We also visit the Museo Carmen Thyssen in the Palacio de Villalón, a restored 16th-century palace with carved wooden ceilings and a striking Renaissance entrance. The museum displays important Andalusian works by artists such as Manuel Barrón, Andrés Cortés y Aguilar and Genaro Pérez Villaamil.
Back in our rooftop suite at the Gran Meliá Don Pepe in Marbella, we change into swimsuits and step through the terrace doors to a private dipping pool and hot tub. The late-afternoon sky is clear, and we savor downtime after a busy schedule, relaxing on deck chairs with views stretching to the coast of Africa and the Rock of Gibraltar.
A bottle of Champagne sits in an ice bucket on the outdoor bar, and we agree not to dress for dinner. Instead, the hotel’s RedLevel room service brings an excellent meal to our terrace. We watch the sea and sky shift from sapphire to indigo as golden lights twinkle on the distant African shore.
Morning will come and with it a transfer to the airport and a long flight home. For now, the hot tub is perfectly warm, the Champagne remains unfinished, and under the deepening moonlight we toast the Costa del Sol and linger a little longer.
Marbella Info to Go
Málaga-Costa del Sol Airport, about five miles southwest of Málaga, is the main gateway to the Costa del Sol, offering flights to more than 60 countries and connections to Madrid (MAD) and Barcelona (BCN). The airport has three terminals and a transportation hub at T3 with buses, taxis, suburban trains and car rentals. A train links the airport to downtown Málaga and Fuengirola. Marbella is about 34 miles from the airport; taxis and buses serve the route. Taxi fares vary by time of day and can increase on holidays and weekends, so request a quote.
Where to Stay in Marbella
Gran Meliá Don Pepe Seafront grande dame with rooftop suites and exclusive RedLevel service on the Paseo Marítimo; excellent spa and dining. Calle José Meliá $$$$
Hotel Claude Marbella An intimate boutique hotel in a 17th-century mansion, ideally located in the Old Quarter. Calle San Francisco 5 $$$
Marbella Club Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa A long-standing destination for European jetsetters and royalty, featuring elegant rooms, golf, spa and tennis. Bulevar Príncipe Alfonso von Hohenlohe $$$
Restaurants in Marbella
Asador T-Bone Grill by Matias Gorrotxategi One of Spain’s top grills, offering Basque cuisine and traditional roasting techniques. Gran Meliá Don Pepe, Calle José Meliá $$$
Bodega Bar El Pimpi A Málaga institution with vintage bullfighting posters and a lovely terrace. Local specialties include paella with squid and clams and jamón. Calle Granada 62 and Calle Alcazabilla, Málaga $$
Restaurante Skina Michelin-starred Andalusian cuisine in Marbella’s Old Town; dine on the terrace amid citrus-scented air. Calle Adúar 12 $$$
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