South Africa’s winemaking tradition dates back to 1659, but it experienced a dramatic resurgence in the mid-1990s with the end of apartheid and the establishment of democracy. Today the country is home to nearly 600 wineries and some 247,000 acres of vineyards, producing a wide variety of wines that attract international attention. Recently I sampled a batch of new South African releases available in the United States, ranging from offerings by longstanding estates to wines from producers newly entering the global market.
Highberry Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($21) represents both tradition and fresh initiative. Released by a new winery founded by three experienced wine professionals, including Jabulani Ntshangase — a leading Black figure in South Africa’s wine scene — this pale, delicately flavored Sauvignon Blanc is notable for its balance. It presents nuanced citrus notes and a restrained, elegant profile rather than overt fruitiness.
Virgin Earth Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($19), also new to the international market, leans into classic Sauvignon character with an aroma suggestive of freshly mown grass. That grassy note is complemented by floral highlights and a richer tropical fruit spectrum, giving the wine an appealingly layered nose and palate.
Chenin Blanc plays an outsize role in South African production; with roughly 18 percent of the country’s vineyards planted to the variety, South Africa is the world’s largest Chenin producer. Terre Brulée Chenin Blanc 2014 ($16) illustrates the grape’s versatility. Crafted by a proprietor who hails from France’s Loire Valley, this wine shows smoky and spicy elements alongside crisp acidity and subtle hints of honey and citrus, demonstrating how Chenin can range from fresh to complex and ageworthy.
Pinotage, a grape developed in South Africa in the 1920s, remains a signature expression of the country’s viticultural identity. Radford Dale Frankenstein Pinotage 2014 ($35) captures the variety’s character with a deep color, aromas of plums and other dark fruits, and a persistent, satisfying finish that underscores the grape’s distinctive profile.
Thelema has built a reputation as one of South Africa’s most consistently reliable wineries, and its 100 Percent Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($35) upholds that standard. This Cabernet is smooth and refined, offering a layered, complex palate of dark fruit and a long, polished finish that will appeal to lovers of well-made Bordeaux-style wines.
Ken Forrester Renegade 2011 ($20) blends Syrah and Grenache to create a full-bodied, structured wine that highlights the strengths of both varieties. Syrah contributes spice and a black-olive character, while Grenache brings earthier tones; together they form a distinctive, harmonious wine with solid structure and depth.
These recent releases reflect the diversity and vitality of contemporary South African winemaking: from crisp, aromatic whites to bold, varietal reds, the country continues to produce wines that combine regional character with international appeal.