Vans, cars and motorbikes—commonly called “motos”—zip around Independence Monument at the junction of Norodom and Sihanouk boulevards, while vendors push two-wheeled carts of eggs down the dusty numbered streets, announcing their wares through megaphones attached with twine. On major thoroughfares drivers generally follow the rules, but elsewhere it’s every moto for itself. Phnom Penh’s grid can seem chaotic, yet amid the thick tropical humidity that hangs over the Cambodian capital, moments of calm and unexpected tranquility are never far away.
Home to one of the world’s largest concentrations of nongovernmental organizations, Phnom Penh hosts numerous events and conferences for nonprofit professionals. The city has been steadily improving infrastructure to meet the needs of visitors and residents alike: an expanded city-wide bus system, a year-old train service linking the airport to the urban core and roughly $300 million in recent investment have helped modernize Cambodia’s largest city and bring it closer to the conveniences travelers expect.
It’s easy to get swept up in the bustle while ducking through open-air markets or hunting for pedestrian-friendly sidewalks, but beneath the steady hum of motos and tuk tuks is a population deeply connected to its history and traditions.
Silver Pagoda © PRESSE750 | DREAMSTIME.COM
The Royal Palace is an excellent starting point for visitors of all ages. This residence of Cambodia’s royal family offers insight into centuries of culture and ceremony. Built in 1866 by the great-grandfather of the current king, the complex showcases ornate architecture, a crystal Buddha and the Silver Pagoda, all hinting at the opulence once reserved for the monarchy. While the royal family’s private quarters remain off-limits, visitors can explore the grounds around the Silver Pagoda, the Throne Hall and the Chan Chhaya Pavilion for a modest entrance fee.
Just beyond the palace gates, the riverfront promenade runs north to south along the Mekong River. Lined with restaurants offering a global range of cuisines, the quay also serves as a departure point for boat tours that present a refreshing riverside perspective of the city.
A short walk north along the river and a left onto Street 94 leads to Wat Phnom, a Buddhist temple and the city’s highest religious monument. Rising from the center of a traffic circle, Wat Phnom—“wat” meaning temple and “phnom” meaning hill—stands about 88 feet tall. The site dates back to the 14th century, when legend holds that a woman named Penh discovered a small golden Buddha statue there. Still an active place of worship, Wat Phnom is often regarded as the geographic heart of Phnom Penh.
About a mile southwest of Wat Phnom, Central Market is the city’s largest and liveliest marketplace. The market’s distinctive four-armed layout buzzes with activity as locals haggle over everything from household goods and clothing to fresh fish sourced from the Mekong.
Central Market © RICHARD VAN DER WOUDE | DREAMSTIME.COM
For air-conditioned shopping and entertainment, Eden Garden provides a modern mall experience with shops, a cinema, bakeries and the city’s newer international coffee options. Its restaurants serve a mix of American, German, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Khmer dishes—ideal for visitors who want familiar comforts or to sample international flavors.
To take home a more authentic culinary memory, consider a class at Feel Good Cooking School. Families can learn to prepare three traditional Khmer dishes while supporting a social enterprise that trains local people in hospitality and culinary skills through the Feel Good Café.
If you visit during the rainy season and encounter daily afternoon monsoons, Kids City offers an indoor alternative: a 10-story play complex with activities for all ages, including go-karts, a gym and a toddler area. For a family escape from the heat, day visitors can also travel by taxi or rental car to The Kingdom Resort and Spa to enjoy pools and water slides.
Despite the initial culture shock many Western visitors feel, finding a moment of calm in Phnom Penh can be as simple as striking up a conversation with a friendly local.
Phnom Penh Info to Go
Phnom Penh International Airport is the largest of Cambodia’s airports. Bus 3 from the integrated city bus system connects the airport to key points around the city for a nominal fare (roughly 1,500 KHR, about $0.37) and runs from early morning until the evening. The newer KK Star Airport Express offers a faster option with regular service and multiple stops across the city; tickets are sold at the terminal. For small groups traveling light, tuk tuks are a common and flexible option—airport fares tend to be higher and are typically set between roughly $7–$12 depending on destination. Traditional taxis are another choice, with fares generally ranging from about $9–$15 depending on distance.
Where to Stay in Phnom Penh
THE GREAT DUKE PHNOM PENH Formerly the InterContinental, this well-established hotel in the business district is popular with business travelers and features an outdoor pool, spa and multiple dining venues. 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd. $$$$
IROHA GARDEN HOTEL & RESORT A restored 1930s mansion turned tranquil retreat, offering suites and private villas around a pool with an on-site spa. 8, Street 73, Sangkat Tonle Bassac. $$
RAFFLES HOTEL LE ROYAL A decades-old city institution near Wat Phnom, the hotel blends Khmer and French colonial design and remains a center of Phnom Penh’s social scene. 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh. $$$
Restaurants in Phnom Penh
KHÉMA PASTEUR This refined French restaurant north of Independence Monument offers elegant dishes from brunch options to classic French entrées like beef bourguignon and coq au vin. Corner of streets 228 and 51. $$
MALIS PHNOM PENH Celebrated for using local ingredients—such as palm sugar, Mekong water lobster and amok (a traditional Cambodian fish curry)—Malis showcases flavors rooted in Cambodian cuisine. 136 Norodom Blvd. $$$
TOPAZ A fine-dining experience where French and Cambodian influences meet; guest chefs bring rotating menus that highlight inventive cuisine for those seeking an upscale meal. 162 Preah Norodom Blvd. $$$$