On my first visit to Tokyo three decades ago, I was so captivated by the city’s energy that I decided to stay. I found work at a travel magazine and moved into an apartment arranged through a friend. It didn’t take long to realize how lucky I was.
The apartment was in Aoyama, one of Tokyo’s most desirable neighborhoods. Although the capital can feel overwhelming with its dense crowds, crowded subways and soaring buildings, its distinct neighborhoods give the metropolis a series-of-small-towns quality. I fell for Aoyama and neighboring Harajuku—drawn to their relaxed vibe, sidewalk cafés and narrow, winding streets filled with ethnic eateries and unique boutiques.
Over the years I kept returning to these haunts, which are now among Tokyo’s trendiest areas. Once, the lines between them were clearer—Harajuku catered to teens and experimental street fashion, while Aoyama appealed to trendsetting young professionals—but those boundaries have blurred.
Today many people refer to the whole district as Omotesando, named for the elegant boulevard that connects Aoyama and Harajuku. Lined with zelkova trees and notable contemporary architecture, Omotesando stands out for its youthful energy in a country where more than 20 percent of the population is over 65. Sit at a sidewalk café and you’ll watch one of the world’s liveliest fashion displays: a constant procession of designer looks, daring outfits from emerging designers and street styles that range from Lolita and Gothic to highly personalized ensembles.
On weekends, Omotesando attracts young Tokyoites much like beaches draw city dwellers elsewhere. Laforet has been a bellwether of cutting-edge youth fashion since 1978, while Omotesando Hills—designed by Tadao Ando—caters to shoppers seeking luxury labels. The avenue features an international mix of designer boutiques from Tod’s to Prada, alongside influential Japanese brands such as Issey Miyake’s Reality Lab and A Bathing Ape.
The area also celebrates small, specialized shops: places devoted to chopsticks, traditional calligraphy tools, artisanal incense, ikebana and tea-ceremony accoutrements, and even novelty stores. Oriental Bazaar remains a top destination for high-quality Japanese crafts and souvenirs. These compact, focused stores give the neighborhood a distinctive character and invite leisurely browsing.
I love wandering Omotesando’s backstreets, discovering new shops and testing out restaurants. Yet amid the bustle I often slip away to Meiji Jingu Shrine, dedicated to the emperor who helped usher Japan into the modern industrial era. Tucked deep within a tranquil forest, the shrine offers a sense of continuity—a quiet, timeless presence in a neighborhood that’s always evolving yet somehow retains its youthful spirit.