I’m a little nervous, but I’m doing my best not to show it. A faint crunching sound accompanies my crampons as they bite into the ice on the upper reaches of Sólheimajökull glacier in southwest Iceland. This blue-tinged glacier is a tongue of the much larger Mýrdalsjökull icecap — a detail my guide, Ryan Connolly, co-founder of Hidden Iceland, shares as we prepare to explore.
The ice beneath my feet feels otherworldly: stark, beautiful, and uncompromising. It’s also exhilarating. Connolly’s calm expertise quickly replaces any unease. Though I am new to glacier hiking, he has me moving confidently in short order. We spend a couple of hours traversing narrow carved gorges and arriving in open stretches that appear smooth until a yawning crevasse suddenly cuts the surface. At one stop, we scoop crystal-clear water from a cobalt pool formed in an ice vein. The horizon alternates between shrouds of mist and brilliant blue sky, streaked with feathery clouds Connolly calls “mare’s tails.”
Sólheimjökull Glacier Hidden Iceland © Norris Niman
Our day began in Reykjavik, where Connolly picked up my husband and me and drove us first to the LAVA Centre for a concise overview of Iceland’s geology. The center’s displays include real-time data on volcanic activity, recent ground tremors, and seismic events — useful context for understanding the dramatic landscapes we were about to encounter.
As we head along the South Coast, the road winds between bright green moss and fields of dark, jagged lava. Cliffs nearby shimmer with spray from a string of waterfalls. We stop at Reynisfjara, the famous black sand beach, where towering basalt columns rise like a ruined cathedral and millions of black pebbles — remnants of ancient lava flows — cover the shore. Massive rock formations frame a shallow cave that looks as if giants had stacked it; when I ask Connolly if trolls were involved, he smiles and leads us to the Black Beach Restaurant for warming bowls of soup.
Seljalandsfoss Hidden Iceland © Norris Niman
On our return toward Reykjavik we visit Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. Folklore speaks of hidden Viking gold at Skógafoss, but our real discovery comes at Seljalandsfoss: a winding path and steps lead behind the curtain of water, where we stand on a wide ledge and watch rainbows form in the spray. From behind the sheet of falling water, light refracts through droplets that escape the waterfall’s edges, painting the scene in vibrant arcs.
Connolly aims to make every visit seamless, and Hidden Iceland’s approach reflects that goal. The company provides airport-to-airport service and offers single- or multi-day custom tours, tailoring each itinerary to the traveler’s interests. From pickup to drop-off, they handle logistics and plan activities so guests can focus solely on experiencing Iceland’s extraordinary scenery.
Skógafoss Hidden Iceland © Norris Niman
By the end of the day, I feel grateful for a guide who knows how to balance safety with adventure. From glacier hikes to volcanic coastlines and thunderous waterfalls, the South Coast’s contrasts are unforgettable, and exploring them with someone who anticipates every need makes the experience all the more rewarding.