MENTION THE WINES of Provence and most people think pink. Understandably so: rosé accounts for about 35 percent of the wine produced in this southern French region and nearly 6 percent of the world’s rosé. But Provence also makes attractive whites and reds that deserve attention.
That variety was clear in a tasting of wines from Château de Chausse, a 135-acre property located nine miles from St.-Tropez. Since American producer and distributor Charles S. Cohen purchased the estate in 2016, the château has undergone steady improvements across the vineyards, cellar and hospitality areas.
© GREG NESBIT PHOTOGRAPHY/ CHÂTEAU DE CHAUSSE
Much of the recent uplift in quality is the result of the château’s collaboration with consulting oenologist Laurence Berlemont. A native of Provence with degrees in oenology and agronomic engineering and experience in other French wine regions, Berlemont returned to her home region to work as a consultant. Her influence is evident in the consistent character and balance of the estate’s wines.
The white Vermentino grape, known locally as Rolle, is showcased in Château de Chausse Côtes de Provence White 2016. This 100 percent Rolle bottling shows bright varietal character and lively acidity, making it an appealing aperitif or light starter wine.
Château de Chausse Côtes de Provence Diamant White 2016 is also 100 percent Rolle but presents a different profile: fuller-bodied and more textural, it pairs especially well with fish or veal entrées.
The 2016 rosé is a pale, delicate blend of Cinsault and Grenache. It delivers balanced, enticing fruit flavors and crisp acidity, standing as a fine example of classic Provençal rosé.
The estate’s red wines demonstrate equal attention to quality. Château de Chausse Red 2013, composed of equal parts Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, is firm and youthful with good structure and potential for further development.
Château de Chausse Red 2011, a blend of 60 percent Syrah and 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, is two years older and still compact and robust, a textbook example of wines that benefit from patience.
For many tasters, the highlight among the reds is Château de Chausse Côtes de Provence Red 2012, a balanced Syrah-Cabernet blend that stands out for its ripe flavors and approachability — in short, delicious.
Price points are accessible for the quality offered: rosés typically range from about $22 to $28, whites around $30 to $33, and reds approximately $35 to $38.