WHENEVER WINE AFICIONADOS talk about Italy’s greatest wines, they are sure to bring up Brunello di Montalcino, often the first and, occasionally, the only one mentioned. A Tuscan wine, it is made solely from Sangiovese Grosso, the grape grown in vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino, 20 miles south of Siena. This distinctive clone of Sangiovese produces large, thick-skinned berries with a brownish hue — hence the name Brunello — and yields bold, flavorful red wines that usually require years of aging to reach their peak. Italian wine regulations require Brunello di Montalcino to be aged for five years after harvest before release, while the riserva must age for six years.
I recently tasted a selection of Brunello di Montalcino bottles, mostly from the 2013 vintage, with one riserva from 2012. Each offered deep, opulent flavors while maintaining moderate alcohol levels between 13.8 and 14.5 percent, enough to support the wine without dominating its character. The 2013 season was relatively cool, which lends wines produced that year added elegance and balanced alcohol.
Le Chiuse 2013 displays a deep, complex aroma, an intense, brilliant palate, a full body and a long, satisfying finish.
Il Palazzone 2013 is medium-bodied with an inviting, forward nose and a lush, heady palate featuring bright cherry notes.
La Magia 2013 is an exquisite example: dark in color, it gives off a generous, floral-tinged bouquet and a rich, sumptuous flavor profile.
San Polo 2012 Riserva, having spent an extra year in cellar as a riserva, delivers everything expected of that style: a warm, inviting aroma, a medium-full body and a generously balanced, well-structured palate. It provided a fitting finale to the tasting.
Given its quality and extended aging requirements, Brunello di Montalcino comes at a premium. Typical prices fall roughly between $50 and $100, depending on producer, vintage and market conditions.
Is it expensive? Yes. Does it require patience? Yes. Yet a single sip explains why Brunello di Montalcino commands both the price and the wait: its depth, balance and aging potential make it one of Italy’s most compelling red wines.