On Nov. 28, Bern’s Old Town transforms into the lively setting for the annual Onion Market (Zibelemärit), a centuries‑old tradition that draws locals and visitors alike. Farmers from the surrounding region bring more than 50 tons of onions and garlic to the city center, often braided into decorative strings and displayed alongside a wide range of artisan goods. The market takes place on the fourth Monday of November and opens very early — around 5 a.m. — when early risers stroll the narrow streets to browse stalls offering pottery, fresh vegetables, handmade crafts and, of course, bundles of onions.
The Onion Market is more than a market; it is a full sensory experience. Sellers call out their wares, while shoppers sift through colorful displays and negotiate for the best braids and the freshest produce. Stalls sell all kinds of onion-themed foods: hearty onion tarts and steaming onion soups are staples, while variations on savory cheese tarts appear on menus throughout the old town. Seasonal aromas from food stands and the occasional stand pouring hot, mulled Glühwein add warmth to the chilly November air. Children add to the atmosphere by scattering confetti down the streets, creating a playfully festive scene that contrasts with the historic architecture of Bern’s medieval center.
The city organizes practical measures to accommodate the influx of visitors. Public transportation schedules are adjusted so out‑of‑town guests have additional options for arrival and departure, helping to ease crowding and making it possible to enjoy the market without the stress of travel logistics. The event is family friendly and offers a slice of Swiss tradition: from the braided onion decorations to regional specialties, the Onion Market celebrates local agriculture, craftsmanship and seasonal conviviality.
While in Bern for the market, take the opportunity to explore the city’s cultural offerings. The Kunstmuseum Bern is hosting a major exhibition titled Liechtenstein: The Princely Collections from Nov. 12 through March 19, 2017. This exhibition showcases works from one of the world’s most distinguished private collections, spanning five centuries of European art. Displayed in Switzerland for the first time, the collection offers an overview of masterpieces that trace artistic developments across eras and styles, giving visitors a rare chance to see important works up close. The museum’s galleries provide context for the pieces, with well‑curated displays that emphasize connections between artists, patrons and historical moments.
Shortly after, the Zentrum Paul Klee presents Paul Klee and the Surrealists, opening on Nov. 18. This exhibition explores Klee’s artistic relationship with the Surrealist circle in Paris during the 1920s and 1930s, highlighting the exchange of ideas and aesthetic experimentation that shaped that era. Organized in collaboration with the Centre Pompidou, the show features works by influential Surrealists such as Max Ernst, Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró, Hans Arp, Alberto Giacometti and André Masson. Together with Klee’s own paintings and drawings, the exhibition illuminates the dialogues between abstraction, dream imagery and automatism that informed many artists’ practices at the time.
Combining a vibrant public festival with world‑class museum exhibitions, a November visit to Bern offers both popular tradition and cultural depth. Wander the Old Town’s cobbled streets to soak up the market’s lively atmosphere, taste regional culinary treats, and then step into the calm, contemplative spaces of the city’s museums to view outstanding collections and thoughtfully curated shows. Whether you come for the braided onions and confetti or the rare museum displays, Bern in November provides a memorable blend of local color and international art.