Italy’s largest port city and an important commercial center, Genoa is often overlooked on typical leisure routes. That means when you’re there after hours you’ll mix with Genoese rather than tourists. Locals favor a relaxed aperitivo—usually a glass of wine or a light spritz—over elaborate cocktails, moving from one wine bar to another and sampling the small complimentary bites that accompany drinks. To fit in, try an Aperol spritz: brighter and lower in alcohol than Campari-based drinks, it pairs well with Prosecco to mellow Aperol’s bitterness. On fine evenings you can sip with a harbor view at Oltremodo, from the deck of the ship Italia. Closer to the business district, Solidoc offers an extensive wine list in the atmospheric courtyard of the Doge’s Palace.
For quieter after-work conversations, seek intimate bars and lounges. Muà provides chic white leather seating for relaxed meetings, while Otello Café—just off Via Sestri—offers a refined setting for clients and colleagues. Dolce Vita Café presents a wine list of more than 100 labels; note that Friday nights feature a DJ, which can make conversation more challenging.
In Italy dinner begins late, so expect locals to sit down around 8 p.m. or later. Genoa’s restaurants showcase fresh local seafood prepared simply yet creatively, even in long-standing osterie. Osteria di San Matteo attracts diners with artful presentations, and Antica Osteria di Vico Palla, near the port, is cherished for its atmosphere and seafood specialties. For lobster lovers, Le Cantine Squarciafico is renowned—start with their linguine all’astice. Near the Trade Fair, both the spacious, elegant Ippogrifo and the small but refined Le Perlage are solid choices for business meals.
Nightlife in Genoa is lively and changes quickly, so ask locals for current favorites or explore the cluster of bars and clubs between Piazza Sarzano and Via San Lorenzo. Makò remains a popular piano bar and disco with views of the sea, playing easy-house, R&B and revival hits for a mixed crowd. Around Piazza delle Erbe, the student hub, La Claque doubles as a club and theater with indie bands and cabaret, while the Louisiana Jazz Club draws a more mature audience for live jazz on Thursdays and Saturdays.
Genoa’s compact but active LGBT scene supports several late-night venues. Virgo Discoclub on Via Alfredo Carzino stays open into the early morning hours, and Diva at Piazza Tommaseo and La Cage on Via Sampierdarena provide additional options for different vibes and crowds.
For performing arts, Teatro Carlo Felice is one of Italy’s leading opera houses. Rebuilt after World War II, the theater stages opera, ballet, symphony concerts, jazz and occasional rock performances in a modern, well-equipped setting.