Riding a festooned camel across sand dunes that rise like canyon walls, my daughter and I feel as if we’ve wandered into a fairy tale. We cross flaxen hills of sand with only the desert around us, our hands curled over the camels’ humps. In unison, we think of Aladdin and The Arabian Nights — Middle Eastern tales set in unnamed lands of wonder — and we scan the sand for a genie and his lamp. It could happen here in Abu Dhabi.
Abu Dhabi, capital of the United Arab Emirates and the emirate that surrounds it, possesses an alluring blend of modernity and timelessness. In the Liwa Desert, part of the vast Empty Quarter about an hour from the city, my daughter and I settled in for a few days after my work commitments. We checked into Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, where the staff greeted us with chewy dates, thimble-sized cups of cardamom-laced coffee, and jewel-toned flagons of camel’s milk. The welcome felt intimate and otherworldly, and I kept pinching myself to make sure the moment was real.
Qasr Al Sarab seems to rise from the dunes like an oasis, its architecture echoing the grand forts of the region once used by chieftains and rulers. The resort’s design weaves in thousands of artifacts that evoke Arabian civilization — weathered camel bags, dented silver coffee pots and ornate hookahs — each piece placed to conjure a sense of enduring history. A multi-tiered pool surrounded by palms and greenery reinforces the oasis illusion. The resort offers myriad Bedouin-inspired activities for children and adults: falconry demonstrations, camel treks and archery, plus dune bashing in 4x4s and sunrise hikes to watch the sky erupt in color. Dining spans excellent Middle Eastern cuisine in several restaurants, and the staff will arrange tables set amid the dunes for special meals. One night, beneath a brightly colored Bedouin tent, we enjoyed a feast accompanied by musicians and attentive service — the desert breeze completing the scene.
Before our desert stay, we explored Abu Dhabi itself, a culturally vibrant city with ambitious arts plans. Saadiyat Island is rapidly developing as a cultural district and will include major institutions such as the Louvre Abu Dhabi and a planned Guggenheim. We stayed at the contemporary Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi on Saadiyat, known for its stylish ambiance and sandy beachfront. At Atarmia Spa we experienced treatments inspired by local healing traditions, then crossed a short bridge to visit nearby Yas Island. Abu Dhabi encompasses some 200 islands, and Yas is home to the Formula 1 complex and several entertainment venues. Ferrari World, with its car-themed rides and high-adrenaline attractions, awakened my inner child: we rode Formula Rossa, the world’s fastest roller coaster, accelerating from 0 to 149 mph in about 4.9 seconds while wearing protective goggles. For a true motorsport experience, drivers can book the Yas Racing School to pilot an Aston Martin GT4 on the Yas Marina Circuit, which also hosts the annual Etihad Airways Formula 1 Grand Prix each November.
Traditional herbs and spices in a souk © DIANA GRADEVA | DREAMSTIME
For shoppers, Abu Dhabi is a place of contrasts — luxurious designer boutiques sit alongside bustling traditional souks where haggling is part of the ritual. We passed on the global luxury brands to wander the maze of market stalls. At Yas Perfumes we explored oud, the fragrant resin from agarwood prized across the region, and purchased a burner and wood chips. The Carpet Souk revealed a treasure trove of handwoven Turkish and Persian rugs, their patterns and colors hinting at stories from long ago. In the rustic Al Ain Souk we found affordable bangles and spices, and at the Gold Souk we put our bargaining skills to use and left with a necklace we were happy with.
Abu Dhabi caters to a wide range of interests. History enthusiasts should visit Al Ain, often called the emirate’s second city, where the Al Ain Palace Museum preserves the former home of Sheikh Zayed, the founder of the U.A.E., and presents restored rooms that reflect his life before 1966. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is another essential stop: a welcoming space known for its striking interior, a vast handwoven carpet that resembles a rolling sea and a ceiling crowned by an enormous chandelier.
Interior of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque © PATRYK KOSMIDER | DREAMSTIME
Golfers will find three championship courses within a short drive of one another. Saadiyat Beach Golf Club, designed by Gary Player, offers scenic beach views. Abu Dhabi Golf Club presents a stern test, its signature hole guarded by a lake and a sheer rock wall. Yas Links Abu Dhabi — the Middle East’s only true links course — has been recognized among the world’s finest. For outdoor adventure, go dune bashing in Al Gharbia in a high-speed 4×4 or try sandboarding at sunset followed by a barbecue under the stars.
Ultimately, it was the Empty Quarter’s alien beauty that left the deepest impression on my daughter and me. On our final afternoon at Qasr Al Sarab we climbed a dune with a falconer dressed in traditional Bedouin garb. From a ridge that overlooked an endless expanse of ivory sand, he showcased his birds and shared the ancient art of falconry. As dusk fell, the sun slipped behind the dunes like a candied disc, and for a moment the horizon seemed to shimmer with possibility — we almost imagined a flying carpet drifting across the sky.
Abu Dhabi Info to Go
Abu Dhabi International Airport is the U.A.E.’s second-largest airport and one of the world’s fastest-growing hubs, serving more than 100 destinations across dozens of countries. Etihad Airways, the emirate’s national carrier, operates daily nonstop flights to major international gateways, making it easy to add Abu Dhabi to an itinerary.
Where to Stay in Abu Dhabi
EMIRATES PALACE The most opulent hotel in the city, located near the bustling center and known for its regal atmosphere. Guests can enjoy an extravagant high tea or a cappuccino topped with 24k gold flakes. West Corniche Road $$$$$
PARK HYATT ABU DHABI A contemporary retreat on Saadiyat Island with alfresco spaces and a lively beach. Ideal for a stylish seaside stay. Saadiyat Island $$$$$
QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA About an hour from Abu Dhabi City, this remote resort offers rooms overlooking the dramatic desert landscape and activities that provide a luxurious window into Bedouin life, from falconry to camel riding. 1 Qasr Al Sarab Road $$$$$
Restaurants in Abu Dhabi
HAKKASAN A standout outpost of the global modern Chinese brand, located in Emirates Palace and celebrated for refined dishes in an elegant setting. Emirates Palace, West Corniche Road $$$$
LI BEIRUT Located in a high-rise along the beach, Li Beirut highlights the flavors of the Middle East and draws diners who appreciate regional cuisine. Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, West Corniche $$$$
SAADIYAT BEACH CLUB A stylish beachfront venue with multiple restaurants, a pool and a beach; Safina, its Mediterranean restaurant, is ideal for a romantic evening. Saadiyat Island $$$$