Nine hundred miles east of the African mainland, nature deposited all the island clichés you expect in the Indian Ocean: palm-fringed shores, arcs of powdery white sand and crystalline waters. The result is the archetypal tropical paradise — the 115 islands that make up the Seychelles.
Recently, the Seychelles have become one of the world’s most photographed destinations, and social media often reinforces the postcard image. Still, there is much more to these islands than beaches and photo opportunities. Visitors who pack hiking boots will find equally rewarding experiences inland.
Unlike most tropical islands that are volcanic or coral in origin, the main islands of the Seychelles are the exposed remnants of an ancient granite microcontinent that separated from India about 145 million years ago. The terrain is older and rockier than on most tropical isles, and on the larger islands the interior rises dramatically above the coast. Well-maintained trails lead through dense tropical forest and occasionally open to spectacular viewpoints.
One accessible route lies just inland from Victoria, the capital, on the largest island, Mahé (pronounced Ma-HEY). The Copolia Trail is an hour-long ascent that reaches the summit of Mount Copolia, where hikers are rewarded with panoramic views over Victoria — a compact city of roughly 26,000 people — and across to neighboring islands such as Praslin and La Digue.
La Digue offers a different kind of hiking pleasure: long, scenic walks that thread through thick forest and link one exceptional beach to another, with refreshing swimming stops along the way. The island’s interior hosts a surprising number of endemic plants and animals. Birdwatchers should keep an eye out for the Seychelles paradise flycatcher, one of the rare species that still survives in these forests.
In the center of Praslin lies Vallée de Mai, a 48-acre pocket of primeval palm forest designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its most famous resident is the coco de mer palm, which produces the largest and most distinctive seeds in the plant kingdom. Vallée de Mai also shelters unique wildlife such as tiger chameleons, harmless Seychelles wolf snakes, endemic snails, sunbirds and the Seychelles black parrot.
Geologically connected to Asia but politically African, the Seychelles are a true cultural melting pot. The Seychellois population reflects Malagasy, African, Indian, Chinese and European roots. Seychellois Creole, the everyday language, is based on French and incorporates vocabulary from many sources. French cultural traces remain visible despite a lengthy period of British administration that lasted until independence in 1976.
British influence appears in small but visible ways around the capital, which honors Queen Victoria and features a metal clock tower modeled on one near London’s Victoria Station. Victoria itself is relaxed compared with many world capitals, but it offers lively local life at places like the Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market. The fish stalls there give a clear picture of the surrounding seas, with fresh tuna, parrotfish, octopus and even shark displayed daily.
On Mahe’s west coast, the Wednesday night market at Beau Vallon is a more tourist-oriented but enjoyable experience. From about 4:30 to 9 p.m., barbecue smoke and the scent of local dishes fill the air; visitors can buy food and drinks and take them down to the beach to enjoy the sunset.
The granitic Inner Islands — Mahé, Praslin and La Digue among them — are the most populated group in the Seychelles archipelago. The more remote Outer Islands extend across more than 700 miles to the southwest of Mahé. Mostly coral in nature and reached by boat or light aircraft, those islands provide intimate, take-it-easy escapes where guest numbers are deliberately limited.
On many Outer Islands, tourism is intentionally small-scale, with a single hotel or lodge sometimes defining the visitor experience. Aldabra Atoll, one of the most remarkable Outer Islands, is inhabited almost exclusively by scientists studying the atoll’s distinctive ecosystems. Lacking an airstrip, Aldabra is occasionally visited by cruise ships and is often likened to the Galápagos of the Indian Ocean. The giant Aldabra tortoises are the headline attraction, but the atoll also supports numerous endemic birds, reptiles and plants. Giant tortoises have been introduced to some Inner Islands — La Digue in particular — where they can be a surprisingly persistent presence on bicycle paths.
For many travelers, the Seychelles remain primarily about beaches. The Outer Islands can offer greater solitude and the chance to be deposited alone on a pristine sandbank for a few hours. Yet the iconic granite formations that appear in countless Seychelles photographs are found mostly on the main islands, where the sculpted boulders create unforgettable coastal scenery.
On Mahé, the small and often nearly deserted midweek beach of Anse Baleine is prized by locals and visitors seeking quiet. On Praslin, Anse Lazio is widely regarded as that island’s finest shoreline. And on La Digue, Anse Source d’Argent is arguably the archipelago’s most photographed beach, with its smooth, architectural granite boulders; it’s also a reminder to watch where you stand when tourists pose for selfies.
LODGING
Le Domaine de L’Orangeraie Resort & Spa
This resort offers 63 private villas set in a secluded tropical environment. The hillside spa provides a range of treatments and a peaceful atmosphere.
Anse Sévère, La Digue
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Constance Lemuria Resort
Freshly renovated and located beside a superb beach, this resort also features an 18-hole championship golf course for guests who want a sporting diversion.
Ase Kerlan, Praslin
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DINING
Café des Arts Restaurant
Situated at Hotel Le Duc de Praslin, this beachfront restaurant focuses on seafood with a Creole approach and French culinary influence.
Hotel Le Duc de Praslin, Anse Volbert, Praslin
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Marie-Antoinette Restaurant
A well-regarded spot for authentic Creole cuisine; offerings can include seasonal specialties available by preorder.
Beau Vallon, Victoria, Mahé
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Snack Bellevue
A relaxed place for light meals with sweeping views. Arrive in the late afternoon to enjoy the panorama and the sunset.
Nid d’Aigle, La Digue
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