My favorite place in Zürich is not a museum, park or church. When I arrive, I head straight to Confiserie Sprüngli for a chocolate fix. Their truffes du jour are unmatched — melt-in-your-mouth confections made with fresh cream, butter and cocoa, prepared daily and best enjoyed within three days.
Founded in 1836, Sprüngli is a Swiss institution with multiple outlets across the country. I often visit the original shop, which also houses a café and bakery on Bahnhofstrasse, Zürich’s most famous shopping thoroughfare. Switzerland is, after all, synonymous with chocolate, cheese, watches and banks.
Speaking of banks, Zürich — the country’s largest city with around 380,000 residents — hosts many financial institutions. Yet it’s far from a dull business center. The city is picturesque, lively and surprisingly playful. Water is everywhere: the River Limmat, Lake Zürich and roughly 1,200 fountains give the city an aquatic charm.
“Zürich is a very nice city. We have the lake, the river, a Mediterranean influence,” said Rolf Hiltl, owner of the well-known vegetarian restaurant Hiltl. “People go out a lot here. They know how to appreciate life.” For several years Zürich ranked among the top cities in quality-of-life surveys; in recent years it has continued to rate highly.
“The living standard is very high here,” added Sepp Wimmer, an Austrian who runs Zunfthaus zur Waag. “People earn well. Public transportation is excellent. The airport is only 10 minutes away. Crime is low, and the city is very clean. It’s not huge, yet you can find everything here.”
I didn’t need convincing. Zürich is easy to explore on foot — and when walking gets tiring, trams are convenient and frequent.
Zürich’s main train station, the country’s busiest, is a central hub with roughly 150,000 passengers daily. Inside the vast main hall a lively market takes place each Wednesday from late morning into the evening, while the lower level hosts a shopping concourse with more than 100 stores. A colorful, whimsical angel by French artist Niki de Saint Phalle floats from the station ceiling, adding a playful touch to the space.
Several historic churches are must-sees. St. Peter’s is Zürich’s oldest parish church and features Europe’s largest clock face on its steeple and notable Gothic choir stalls. The Fraumünster dates from the ninth century, when it began as a Benedictine convent; today it draws art lovers for Marc Chagall’s striking stained-glass windows, regarded as among the city’s most important non-museum artworks.
The Grossmünster played a pivotal role in religious history. Consecrated in the 12th century, it became the center of the Reformation in German-speaking Switzerland under Huldrych Zwingli in the 1520s. Its twin Neo-Gothic towers dominate the skyline, and visitors can climb the spires for superb views of the city, the lake and surrounding mountains.
For a quieter panorama, visit the Lindenhof, a small hill considered the city’s birthplace. Once a Roman customs post, it’s now a leafy park where locals play oversized chess, stroll with children and admire Old Town rooftops.
To see Zürich from the water, take a boat ride on Lake Zürich. Ferries link the city with lakeside towns year-round, and paddle-steamers offer scenic excursions to medieval Rapperswil and other charming destinations.
The Kunsthaus Zürich houses one of Switzerland’s finest art collections. Its holdings range from contemporary works to Impressionist and Secessionist pieces, along with a strong presentation of Swiss artists and design.
For nightlife, head to Niederdorf, the Old Town district along the river filled with restaurants, bars and clubs. Zürich West, once an industrial area, has been transformed into a trendy quarter with expansive, warehouse-style venues where nightlife often continues into the early hours.
Dining in Zürich is diverse and plentiful — the city averages about one restaurant for every 180 residents. Try the local specialty Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, usually veal in a creamy mushroom sauce. At traditional venues such as Zunfthaus zur Waag, you may also encounter older recipes made with kidneys, reflecting historic preparations.
And of course, don’t forget chocolate. Confiserie Sprüngli has locations at the airport and the train station, making it easy to pick up exquisite truffles to enjoy during your journey home.
Info To Go
Zürich Airport (ZRH), the country’s largest international gateway, lies about six miles north of the city. Trains depart from the airport’s lower level to the city center every 10 minutes, and the trip takes about 10 minutes. Taxis to the center are roughly 15 minutes and can be significantly more expensive. Bus service and car rentals are also available. Tourist information and official city resources provide details on schedules and services.
Diversions
Bahnhofstrasse, a three-quarter-mile boulevard stretching from the station to Lake Zürich, is the city’s luxury shopping street. High-end boutiques cluster toward the lake end, while more affordable stores appear closer to the station. Two elegant department stores, Globus and Jelmoli, sit roughly in the middle, and numerous jewelers offer an excellent selection of Swiss watches.
Explore the narrow side streets branching off Bahnhofstrasse to find independent shops and historic buildings. The Old Town, with cobbled, hilly lanes and structures dating back to the 14th century, is a pedestrian-friendly area where many buildings still display frescoes and carved details.
For authentic Swiss crafts, Schweizer Heimatwerk (House of Craft) stocks designer clothing, ceramics, wooden products and traditional toys at several city locations and the airport.
The Zürich Card is a practical option for visitors: it covers unlimited travel on the city’s public transport network — including trains, buses, trams, boats and certain aerial cableways — and grants free or reduced admission to many museums and attractions. Cards are available for different durations and can be purchased at tourist offices, the train station and the airport. Bike rentals are also available near the station with a deposit and simple ID requirement.
Lodging
Baur au Lac
An elegant, lakeside luxury hotel offering classic service in a central location. Talstrasse 1. $$$$
Central Plaza Hotel
Conveniently located a short walk from the main train station, with many rooms featuring river views. Central 1. $$$$
Widder Hotel
A unique boutique hotel set within eight restored historic townhouses in the Old Town, each room individually styled to blend modern and antique elements. Rennweg 7. $$$$
Dining
Haus Hiltl
Europe’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, founded in 1898. A buffet offers a wide range of international dishes, priced by weight. Sihlstrasse 28. $$$
Restaurant Oepfelchammer
An atmospheric Old Town restaurant and wine tavern serving local cuisine in a setting rich with carved wood and historic charm. Rindermarkt 12. $$$$
Zunfthaus zur Waag
Traditional Zürich cuisine served in a Renaissance guild hall with a quiet, elegant atmosphere. Münsterhof 8. $$$$