Rounding the bend, I gasp. Through the morning mist — and not 100 yards in front of our vehicle — a matriarchal herd of elephants is enjoying their breakfast of tree limbs and leaves. Suddenly a baby elephant emerges from a forest of adult legs, copying her mother, aunts and older sisters as she reaches for lower-hanging branches with her trunk.
She’s learning to use her trunk; though not yet adept, her attempts are endearing and amusing. So focused on the calf, we fail to notice a bull elephant approaching from behind until our guide, Raymond, gently repositions the vehicle to reduce our presence and avoid disturbing the group.
Smiling broadly, I glance at my sister Karen and see tears on her cheeks. She’s overwhelmed watching these magnificent animals in their natural environment, moving freely and unconcerned by people. The moment feels magical and sets the tone for the many wildlife encounters we enjoyed on our 10-day Southern African adventure with John Hall’s Alaska.
SOUTH AFRICA
Many safaris in South Africa revolve around Kruger National Park — and for good reason. Covering nearly 5 million acres, Kruger is one of Africa’s largest game reserves, home to around 150 mammal species and more than 500 bird species. The park sits roughly four hours from Johannesburg and about 19 hours from Cape Town by road.
© Susan B. Barnes
An alternative to Kruger is Shamwari Private Game Reserve near Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth). Spanning about 155 square miles and home to its own wildlife rehabilitation center and big cat sanctuary, Shamwari is committed to conservation and offers excellent chances to see Africa’s iconic species.
Game drives at Shamwari typically depart at sunrise and again at dusk for optimal viewing. Raymond led our drives with calm expertise, pausing to observe giraffe browsing, rhino crossings, herds of zebra, lounging lions and cheetah, hippos in the water, stately elephants, stoic Cape buffalo, inquisitive warthogs, playful baboons and elusive hyenas — along with an astonishing variety of birds. His deep knowledge and obvious passion for wildlife made each outing both educational and inspiring.
Between drives, Karen and I relaxed in spacious, tastefully appointed rooms at Long Lee Manor, lounged by the pool and savored beautifully prepared meals morning, noon and night. One afternoon I treated myself to a spa session that ranks among the best I’ve experienced — a perfect way to recharge between safari excursions.
CHOBE RIVER
© Susan B. Barnes
After several nights in Zimbabwe to see Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River, Karen and I boarded Zambezi Queen for river safaris on the Chobe River, which forms part of the border between Botswana and Namibia. Like Shamwari, our excursions ran at dawn and dusk, but instead of land vehicles we explored from small boats guided by Dominic, a local who navigated the river with confidence and shared keen bird and wildlife knowledge.
I hadn’t expected to find so much big-game activity along the Chobe’s banks, yet we spotted lions, elephants and Cape buffalo among other species. We joined early morning bird-watching trips and identified several kingfishers, a goliath heron, a short-toed eagle and flocks of black-winged pratincoles — a few highlights among dozens of species added to our life lists.
On our final outing, from the comfort of a shallow boat, we watched another baby elephant learning to use her trunk, this time attempting to scoop river water. After a few failed tries she folded to her knees and slurped directly with her mouth. I gasped with delight at her persistence and charm.
LODGING
Shamwari Private Game Reserve
At Shamwari’s Long Lee Manor you can watch for the Big Five from a private lanai or poolside. The reserve also offers six other all-inclusive accommodation options suited to different tastes.
Paterson, South Africa
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The Silo Hotel
Experience refined luxury with waterfront views, a rooftop terrace, an outdoor pool, a spa and individually decorated rooms featuring rainfall showers and deep soaking tubs.
Silo Square, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town, South Africa
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The Victoria Falls Hotel
This historic 5-star hotel overlooks Victoria Falls and offers a classic, elegant stay that echoes visits by royalty.
1 Mallet Drive, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
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DINING
Bushtracks Express
Dine on a seven-course meal aboard a restored steam train that pauses on the Victoria Falls Bridge. As the sun sets, enjoy fine food and a toast to the day’s adventures.
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
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Embarc
Embarc serves a changing menu built around fresh ingredients and modern culinary trends, complemented by an impressive wine list — ideal for refined yet relaxed dining.
Corner of 13th Street and Fourth Avenue, Parkhurst, Johannesburg, South Africa
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PIER
PIER places seafood at the center of a multicourse tasting experience often recognized among top restaurants. Menus are offered for lunch and dinner, with vegetarian options available.
Pierhead Building, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town, South Africa
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© Susan B. Barnes
INFO TO GO
Numerous outfitters provide African safaris, many beginning or ending in Cape Town (CPT) or Johannesburg (JNB). Direct flights from the United States to South Africa operate from Atlanta (ATL), New York (EWR) and Washington, D.C. (IAD). In Cape Town you’ll find taxis, rental cars and ride-share services at the airport, and the city’s public transit makes getting around straightforward. In Johannesburg, the high-speed Gautrain connects the airport to the city and private car hire is another convenient option. The 10-day Southern African adventure with John Hall’s Alaska starts in Cape Town and finishes in Johannesburg, with travel between destinations by plane, bus and boat.