HIGH UP IN THE MOUNTAINS with views of the Pacific coast, Monteverde’s Cloud Forest Reserve feels surprisingly cool for Central America. A constant mist leaves a slick layer of moss on branches and trunks. Thick vines hang from towering ficus trees, and clay-lined trails are scattered with fallen passion fruit.
On a guided walk with Mauricio Ramirez, an enthusiastic naturalist, we smelled cilantro and cinnamon, learned which part of a palm yields the heart of palm, peered into a hole with a flashlight to spot an orange-and-brown tarantula, and even swung from a vine for fun. Mauricio’s knowledge and obvious love for the forest made every discovery richer.
When Mauricio set up his telescope, I looked through and froze. A crested owl stared back with bushy white eyebrows and wide eyes. “Holy cow!” I blurted, and Mauricio smiled, “Beautiful, yes, beautiful.”
I first roamed Costa Rica in 1999 and have returned many times since. Each visit deepens my appreciation for this compact, biodiverse country. With an interior as lush as Hawai‘i’s and habitat for three species of monkeys, slow-moving sloths, scarlet macaws, toucans and around 45 species of hummingbirds, Costa Rica’s mix of rainforest, cloud forest, volcanoes and Pacific beaches makes it a top getaway. The nation is about the size of West Virginia, yet packed with varied terrain.
Zip lining through the canopy © WOLLERTZ | DREAMSTIME.COM
For active travelers, Costa Rica is one of the Americas’ best playgrounds. The Central Highlands, often overlooked, sit on the verdant back slopes of Poás Volcano and are less than a 90-minute drive from San José’s international airport — an ideal introduction to the country’s landscape.
In the small farming community of Bajos del Toro, my family and I rode horses through meadows climbing the hillside. This wasn’t a tame, roadside trail: we rode high on slopes, trotted through streams, stopped at a dairy farm to milk cows and feed a five-day-old calf, then galloped through the village of 300 to see its church, school, soccer field and local bar.
That afternoon we hiked for two hours into the cloud forest bordering Poás and discovered three hidden waterfalls. Along the stream we picked blackberries, brushed huge elephant ear leaves and watched golden beetles cross the trail. During the green season in mid-summer, heavy downpours often arrive in late afternoon, only intensifying the jungle’s green. After crossing a bridge we reached the first cascade; the waterfalls grew more scenic the farther we climbed, culminating in “The Promise,” which drops about 200 feet into a clear pool.
“I can’t believe we’re all alone,” my daughter Melanie said, dipping her toes into the cool water.
A two-hour drive northeast of Poás brings you to Arenal, one of the Western Hemisphere’s most active volcanoes. One memorable night my friend Jeff and I watched a red river flow from the crater. The next morning we could still hear eruptions and see puffs of smoke from cooling lava. We spent an afternoon mountain biking on dirt roads at the volcano’s base, admiring its perfect cone that rivals the beauty of Osorno in Chile and Mount Fuji in Japan.
Manuel Antonio National Park is a must-stop. This narrow rainforest is bordered by a sublime stretch of Pacific coastline and a ridge of cliffs. Daily visitor numbers are limited, so it’s best to arrive early and hire a trusted naturalist with a telescope. Small details — a dragonfly’s bulging eyes, a tarantula’s hairs, the electric blue of a butterfly’s wings — come alive through magnification, but the monkeys chasing each other on the beach remain the highlight.
Toucan © DESLOVER | DREAMSTIME.COM
Quepos, the nearest city to Manuel Antonio, once housed workers for the Chiquita banana company; today palm oil plantations have replaced many banana fields. We drove through one of those plantations and later headed into the hills for zip lining. Costa Rica is credited with popularizing the zip line tour, which now appears in many landscapes. Flying above the rainforest or cloud forest canopy, surrounded by green, gives an unparalleled sense of freedom.
Other adventures await: Pacific swells draw surfers from around the world; rivers like the Pacuare and Sarapiquí offer whitewater rafting; and dive sites near Caño Island off the Osa Peninsula and the Catalina Islands near Guanacaste attract divers. Easy flights from North America make return trips tempting.
Costa Rica Info to Go
From San José International Airport, Poás Volcano and its nearby countryside are less than an hour away. Arenal Volcano is around a 2.5-hour drive northwest, while Manuel Antonio National Park lies near Quepos, roughly a three-hour drive from San José depending on traffic. Monteverde and the cloud forest are also about three hours from the capital.
Where to Stay in Costa Rica
ARENAS DEL MAR BEACHFRONT & RAINFOREST RESORT On the outskirts of Manuel Antonio National Park, spacious suites are tucked into cliffs overlooking the Pacific; a white-faced monkey might glance onto your deck. Manuel Antonio, Puntarenas Province $$$
EL SILENCIO LODGE & SPA Nestled on the verdant hills near Bajos del Toro, where hiking and horseback riding lead to hidden waterfalls, El Silencio is an excellent first stop. Bajos del Toro, Alajuela $$
THE SPRINGS RESORT & SPA AT ARENAL With 28 hot springs, a large spa and postcard views of Arenal Volcano, The Springs is ideal for relaxing after regional adventures. Arenal, Alajuela $$$
Restaurants in Costa Rica
MOYA’S PLACE Visitors head to Moya’s Place in Arenal for vegetarian choices like mushroom ravioli and thin-crust pizza; expect live music on weekends. Nuevo Arenal, Guanacaste Province $
STEVE N’ LISA Located on the road into Jacó from Carara National Park, this spot serves classic Costa Rican dishes such as gallo pinto, chicken, plantains and fresh tropical fruit. Highway 34, Tárcoles, Puntarenas Province $
VICTORIA’S An Italian restaurant in Manuel Antonio known for its welcoming owner and solid dishes: Caesar salad, spicy pepperoni thin-crust pizza, chicken pesto and fresh tuna. Cockatoo Building, Manuel Antonio, Puntarenas Province $