Arrival/Check-In: Lion Sands was the final stop on our African itinerary. Based on our travel plans, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport was the most convenient arrival point, although it requires nearly a three-hour transfer to the lodge—considerably longer than Skukuza Airport, which is only minutes away. We arrived at the lodge complex at sunset. After passing through the gates, it took about 20 minutes to reach the entrance of River Lodge, one of four lodges on the property alongside Ivory, Narina and Tinga. Candlelit lanterns welcomed us as staff led us to the main communal area for introductions and check-in. We had just enough time to settle into our rooms while watching elephants feed on nearby trees. After turning off the lights, we enjoyed the brief natural spectacle outside our windows, then went to dinner on the dining deck overlooking the river. Later we relaxed with a game of Scrabble in the bar/lounge before turning in early to prepare for an early morning safari and an upcoming transfer to Ivory Lodge.
Guest Quarters: River Lodge blends natural stone and warm wood finishes to create a cozy atmosphere, while Ivory Lodge emphasizes openness with large windows, thatched roofs and a light, airy palette. Shortly after our visit, River Lodge suffered a significant fire that destroyed parts of its communal area, but thankfully no guests or staff were injured; repairs and reconstruction are underway. Fortunately, all cottages were unaffected. Ivory Lodge comprises eight villas named after birds; we stayed in the Tawny and Sandpiper villas. Entering Sandpiper, a large wooden door opened onto a stunning living area. From the back porch we watched a herd of elephants drinking in the river about 150 yards away. Inside, a well-equipped kitchen/bar with a chilled bottle of South African sparkling wine greeted us. A comfortable seating area led to sliding doors where you could choose to observe wildlife from inside or step outside onto a generous deck with chaise lounges and a plunge pool. The bedroom was spacious, anchored by a king-sized bed, and a few steps up revealed a luxurious bathroom with double sinks, an expansive vanity, a soaking tub and a separate shower. Adjacent to the bathroom was a private outdoor shower enclosed by wood and stone walls, giving the feel of bathing in your own secluded garden.
Services/Amenities: Dining at both River and Ivory lodges was exceptional, with menus that match the standards of a luxurious safari camp. The staff were attentive and eager to ensure a memorable stay. The primary draw, of course, is the wildlife. Our guides brought us close to remarkable scenes, including the aftermath of a zebra kill by a pride of lions; after feeding, the pride rested for a couple of days to digest. We encountered giraffes, rhinos, lions and numerous elephants—fantastic subjects for viewing and photography. Experienced trackers lead game drives in open-air Range Rovers, providing knowledgeable, safe and immersive safari experiences. Afternoon drives typically conclude with a sundowner: a chance to stretch your legs, enjoy a cocktail and watch the sun sink over the South African bush—an essential ritual for any African safari.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ Tracking a pair of leopards as they returned to their territory after hunting
◆ Sharing a quiet cocktail as the moon rose over the African bush
◆ Laughing at lion cubs napping in the afternoon shade
◆ Experiencing Lion Sands’ rare combination of high-end luxury that remains deeply connected to the natural environment.
Lion Sands Game Reserve
Sabi Sand Reserve
Kruger National Park
1260, South Africa
tel 27 11 880 9992
lionsands.com