Last summer I was invited to be a keynote speaker at a marketing conference in São Paulo, Brazil’s largest city and a place I called home for three years as a preschooler. Since this one-week trip marked my first return to the country since I was five, I seized the chance to visit the sites that shaped my earliest memories. I booked a short side trip to Rio de Janeiro—the enchanted city my family visited for Carnival decades ago, with its famous beaches and Sugarloaf Mountain. My wife agreed to my extended stay on one condition: I would come back with a solid list of family-friendly recommendations for a trip we had been planning for years.
To keep that promise, I sketched a plan that balanced what I wanted to enjoy on my own with what would be suitable for our kids. That let me experience Rio’s samba clubs in Lapa and the lively nightlife in Ipanema and Leblon without overindulging in the city’s seductive charms. I wanted to sample the city, but also to prepare activities that would appeal to a family visit.
Before I left home I discovered an intriguing option: you can hike Sugarloaf instead of taking the cable car. The idea appealed to me and my family, so once I arrived I contacted Rio Hiking to reserve a spot for the weekend. With my conference duties complete, I set off for Rio to scout the city for future family adventures.
When I travel for pleasure I often avoid hotels, and in Rio I found the welcoming Rio Guesthouse on the top floor of an apartment building just off Avenida Atlântica in Copacabana. The terrace views over the beach and Sugarloaf would cost far more in a hotel, and Marta, who runs the guesthouse, offered helpful dining tips and local arrangements for me and the other mostly American guests.
At noon our guide Eduardo picked me up at the guesthouse. Six other hikers—none with technical climbing experience—joined the five-hour excursion. The trip’s promotional materials warned that the hike was moderate to hard and that reasonable fitness was required. I recommend wearing sneakers rather than heavy hiking boots so you can get a secure grip on the steeper sections.
The ascent up Sugarloaf follows hiking paths and steep trails through forested granite. Despite feeling capable, I found it more demanding than expected. Everyone completed the route with various levels of effort, including a 14-year-old boy and his mother, who felt tremendous pride after finishing an 80-foot technical climb while harnessed to safety lines. The guides were encouraging and attentive, ensuring we stayed safe and pointing out city landmarks visible from the heights. Our only disappointment came at the summit, 1,300 feet above Guanabara Bay, when a fog rolled in—a common occurrence during Rio’s July and August—obscuring the celebrated panorama. Still, the sense of accomplishment from reaching the top without using the cable car more than made up for the missed view.
After the hike I invited my fellow climbers to share feijoada, Brazil’s hearty national stew of black beans and mixed meats, at Casa da Feijoada in Ipanema. Feijoada is typically served over rice with shredded kale, orange slices and farofa (toasted manioc flour) and pairs perfectly with a caipirinha: cachaça, lime, sugar and ice. The restaurant recommended by Marta offers traditional feijoada as well as other Brazilian dishes for anyone who prefers lighter fare.
Beyond Sugarloaf, Rio offers many outdoor adventures. For adrenaline seekers, Pedra Bonita provides some of the best tandem hang gliding in the world—no prior experience is required, and flights land at the beautiful Praia do Pepino in São Conrado after 15–20 minutes aloft. Keep in mind flights are weather-dependent, especially in summer.
For family-friendly nature outings, Tijuca National Park is an ideal option and only about a 15-minute taxi ride from downtown. Touted as the largest urban forest on Earth, Tijuca has well-marked trails, waterfalls, creeks, and peaks that look over the city. The park supports hundreds of plant and animal species, including monkeys and iguanas that delight children when spotted. The forest surrounds Corcovado Mountain and the Cristo Redentor statue. If hiking isn’t appealing, a cog train runs up the mountain every 30 minutes.
Walking tours provide an insider’s view of Rio’s neighborhoods. Favela tours, run by local guides, offer perspective on hillside communities where more than a million residents live; some tours contribute to social projects in the favelas. There are also guided tours of Rio’s historical and more affluent areas for visitors who prefer a different perspective. Knowledgeable local guides can lead day or evening city excursions that combine history, culture and culinary stops.
For most families, Rio’s greatest appeal is its beaches and lively shoreline culture. Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon are natural playgrounds where locals and visitors mingle. The beaches are divided by postos—lifeguard posts—that create distinct sections frequented by different crowds, from surfers and volleyball players to families and bohemians. Leblon’s posto 12 is popular with families. The Atlantic can have strong waves and undertows, so keep a close eye on children. Visiting on Sunday is enjoyable because the main seaside avenues are closed to cars and open to cyclists, skaters and pedestrians.
When I returned home and reported to my wife, I assured her that Rio is a family-friendly destination with plenty to do. Beyond the city, Brazil offers more family attractions: the beaches of Salvador and Bahia, wildlife in the Amazon, and the dramatic beauty of Iguazú Falls. Now we just have to decide whether to plan our trip for Carnival or another time of year.
Info To Go
Galeão International Airport (GIG) is about 10 miles north of downtown. Most hotels arrange car or van transfers to and from the airport. Taxis are also available outside the terminal; confirm the fare before boarding. A trip to Ipanema or Copacabana typically costs about $30 and takes 30–40 minutes depending on traffic.
Lodging
Best Western Sol Ipanema Hotel
With 15 floors of beachfront views, this property suits both business travelers and families. Av. Vieira Souto 320, Ipanema, tel 55 21 2525 2020
Copacabana Palace
A landmark hotel on Avenida Atlântica, originally built in 1923, with a noted swimming pool and elegant service. Av. Atlântica 1702, Copacabana, tel 55 21 2548 7070
Rio de Janeiro Guesthouse
A comfortable alternative to large hotels on the top floor of an apartment building, offering a terrace overlooking Copacabana Beach. Rua Francisco Sá 5, Copacabana, tel 55 21 2521 8568
Dining
Capricciosa
A favorite among locals, this spot serves a variety of pizzas that appeal to children and adults alike. Rua Vinicius de Moraes 134, Ipanema, tel 55 21 2523 3394
Carretão
A well-priced churrascaria popular with locals and visitors; it has a second location in Ipanema. Rua Siqueira Campos 23, Copacabana, tel 55 21 2236 3435
Casa da Feijoada
A local institution known for some of the best traditional feijoada in the city. Rua Prudente de Moraes 10B, Ipanema, tel 55 21 2247 2776