London ranks at the top of my list of major cities for many reasons — it always offers outstanding experiences no matter my mood or company. Beyond its peaceful parks, historic landmarks, excellent restaurants and thriving theaters and galleries, the city hides charming corners to discover, snug tearooms perfect for two, and tree-lined avenues ideal for leisurely walks.
The Romans founded the original settlement as Londinium in A.D. 43. In A.D. 61, Boudica, queen of a local tribe, led an uprising that drove the Romans out and burned the settlement after mistreatment at the hands of occupying soldiers. Today Boudica is memorialized in a bronze statue near Westminster Bridge, a reminder of London’s long and turbulent history.
Over the centuries London has produced some of the greatest poets and writers in the English language and has evolved into a global financial hub and a diverse metropolis with roughly eight million residents in its urban center. There are many ways to explore the city — by riverboat, on a double-decker bus or on themed walking tours that focus on royalty, art, music, history, literature, gardens, ghosts and notorious figures such as Jack the Ripper. You can also find tours that visit locations used in the Harry Potter films. Thames sightseeing cruises offer excellent views of historic sites and the city’s iconic bridges, with operators sailing year-round from Westminster Pier.
Dominating the riverside skyline, the London Eye is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. A leisurely rotation in a glass capsule delivers 360-degree panoramas of the city and its landmarks. For a romantic touch, reserve a Champagne Flight — private or shared — and enjoy sparkling wine while taking in the view.
Stretching from the river to Euston Road, Museum Mile includes a collection of galleries and museums. Highlights include the Charles Dickens Museum, the London Transport Museum, the Royal Opera House and the British Library, which houses historic maps, manuscripts and rare documents. The British Museum on Great Russell Street offers an eclectic mix of archaeological finds and British treasures and is an ideal place to spend a rainy afternoon. Many museums in this area offer free admission along with interactive exhibits and family activities.
For contemporary art, the Tate Modern on the south bank of the Thames, opposite St. Paul’s Cathedral, is exceptional. Housed in a former power station, the museum presents major temporary exhibitions alongside its permanent collection and is open most days of the year. Nearby, the Design Museum presents rotating exhibitions that highlight innovation in sustainable design and urban creativity.
Part of London’s charm is the ritual of pausing for tea amid the city’s bustle. There are numerous tearooms and several with garden seating. At Kew Gardens, stroll the Treetop Walkway before enjoying tea and handmade cakes at The Orangery. For a classic experience, reserve afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason’s St. James’s restaurant, where live piano music often accompanies tea service. Fortnum & Mason’s window displays and famous food hampers are a quintessentially London sight.
London’s historic sites are essential to any visit. The Tower of London, officially Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress, is a UNESCO World Heritage site with a deep and sometimes dark history of imprisonments, political intrigue and royal pageantry. It houses the Crown Jewels and has hosted the nightly Ceremony of the Keys for centuries; advance planning is required to attend this free, popular event.
Buckingham Palace, the monarch’s official residence, opens to visitors during limited summer months when the State Rooms are accessible. Even a walk along the avenue outside the palace conveys its grandeur. The Changing of the Guard is an iconic ceremony held regularly through the warmer months and on a varied schedule the rest of the year. The Royal Mews, often overlooked, offers insight into the royal household’s equestrian and carriage collections, including the Gold State Coach.
For a wilder side of London, head to London Zoo in the northeast corner of Regent’s Park, home to more than 700 species from jellyfish to red pandas and African servals. The zoo offers engaging exhibits and conservation programs that appeal to visitors of all ages.
Info To Go
London is served by five airports: Heathrow (LHR), Gatwick (LGW), London City (LCY), Luton (LTN) and Stansted (STN). The Heathrow Express connects to Paddington Station, and the Gatwick Express runs non-stop to Victoria. From Stansted, the Stansted Express serves Liverpool Street, with additional National Express and rail connections to other parts of the city. Trains also link Gatwick with Stansted and Heathrow. Taxis and buses are available from all airports. For up-to-date travel information consult the official city visitor resources.
Lodging
The Goring
Adjacent to Buckingham Palace and Victoria Station, The Goring offers refined comfort and attentive service in a quiet setting. Family-owned for generations. Beeston Place, tel 44 20 7396 9000, $$$
The Royal Horseguards
Recently renovated, this five-star hotel provides a range of rooms, some with Thames views, and easy access to Covent Garden and the Houses of Parliament. 2 Whitehall Court, tel 44 871 376 9033, $$$
The Stafford Hotel
A blend of modern luxury and period charm, featuring a spa and butler service. Ideally located near Green Park for walking to central attractions. St. James’s Place, tel 44 20 7493 0111, $$$$
Dining
Arbutus
An elegant Soho restaurant with a daily-changing menu driven by seasonal ingredients. Open for lunch and dinner with pre-theater seatings available. 63–64 Frith St., tel 44 20 7734 4545, $$$
The Grill at The Dorchester
A modern British menu in a stylish dining room, serving contemporary takes on classics such as duck, cod and lamb. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Park Lane, tel 44 20 7629 8888, $$$
Moti Mahal
A refined take on classic Indian cuisine in Covent Garden. Serving lunch and dinner daily except Sundays. 45 Great Queen St., tel 44 20 7240 9329, $$