Nothing eases the stiffness from a 17-plus-hour flight from Los Angeles to Bangkok like an authentic Thai massage. I arrived too late to do more than check into my hotel and collapse, so my long-awaited massage would have to wait.
The next morning offered no time for one either. I was bound for Sampran Riverside, about an hour from downtown Bangkok. This 70-acre family-owned property sits on the Tha Chin River in Nakhon Pathom Province, roughly 20 miles from the city, and feels very much like a destination resort.
Sampran Riverside includes a 4-star riverside hotel, four restaurants, a spa, a 10-acre organic farm and a Thai Village Cultural Centre. Visitors can enjoy cultural performances, elephant demonstrations, traditional arts-and-crafts workshops, cooking classes and guided farm tours.
My room wasn’t ready when I arrived, so I wandered to the Cultural Centre and caught a traditional dance performance. Men and women in elaborate costumes moved gracefully across the stage. After the dance, the audience was invited outside to watch an elephant demonstration.
Mahouts — the keepers and trainers who often work with the same elephants from a young age — guided the animals through demonstrations of strength and skill. Elephants hauled logs, handled tools and playfully twirled hula hoops with their trunks, much to the delight of the children in the crowd.
After the show I strolled back toward the hotel, noticing the sky darkening quickly. I hurried, and just as large raindrops began to fall I reached the lobby. Within minutes the sky opened and a tropical downpour began, the kind that creates instant puddles and sends everyone scrambling for cover.
With the farm tour postponed, the cooking class continued under a covered patio. By the time it ended the rain had eased but the grounds remained too wet for outdoor touring. With an unexpected afternoon free and outdoor activities ruled out, the spa seemed the perfect choice. Fortunately, despite a busy schedule, they had an opening—my long-awaited massage was finally within reach.
I rode to the Arusaya Thai Wellness Spa in an electric cart equipped with water-repellent side curtains. The rain intensified again, so stepping into the spa’s century-old Thai house felt especially welcome. Dim lighting, rich teak wood, soft music and quietly spoken staff created an atmosphere of calm. I instinctively lowered my voice to preserve the peaceful mood.
The antique building overlooks a tranquil lake and houses seven private, air-conditioned treatment rooms with en suite bathrooms, plus three steam rooms and a Jacuzzi. The spa emphasizes natural healing, using homemade products and fresh herbs sourced from the resort’s organic farm in many treatments.
Many guests come simply for a restorative massage, but the spa also offers comprehensive, personalized treatment plans. Therapists provide one-on-one consultations, assess individual needs and recommend tailored natural therapies and treatments.
After a soothing cup of herbal tea made from the farm’s plants, my therapist led me to a rosy-hued treatment room with two mats and partially curtained windows that overlooked the lake. I wore loose, comfortable clothing suitable for a Thai massage and admitted I prefer a gentler touch.
Thai massage at Sampran Riverside © Ellen Clark
Many friends seek the deepest possible pressure, but I favor moderate, careful work. My therapist erred even gentler than I requested, so I found myself asking for firmer pressure—an uncommon moment for me. For more than an hour she stretched and kneaded away tension and knots, using strong, practiced hands. The rain pattering softly on the wooden roof added a lullaby-like soundtrack that nearly sent me to sleep.
The only complaint I had was that the massage ended too soon. Afterward I sat in the lounge with another cup of refreshing herb tea, feeling restored and already planning my next treatment. Wherever that next massage would be, I hoped it would come soon.
Sampran Riverside
Km 32 Pet Kasem Road
Sampran, Nakhon Pathom
73110 Thailand
tel 66 34 322 544
sampranriverside.com