We’d been friends for nearly 20 years, but this was our first extended trip together—aside from distant memories of Girl Scout beach and ski outings when we fancied ourselves Troop Beverly Hills. It had been almost as long since those Scout excursions when we prepared for four days in Madrid.
In the days before departure we exchanged emails mapping out the sights and experiences we most wanted to include. For the most part our priorities matched, though Jill never stopped trying to convince me to row a boat in Retiro Park.
We agreed we wanted a concentrated taste of Spanish culture: fútbol, bullfighting, the masterpieces of Goya, Velázquez and El Greco, history, tapas, wines, flamenco and more. With only a few days, we intended to stay busy.
On our first afternoon severe thunderstorms disrupted plans, but we began our Madrid visit at the Museo Nacional del Prado, a true mecca of art. Standing before Diego Velázquez’s Las Meninas, we remembered elementary school art lessons brought to life and felt the weight of Spain’s artistic legacy.
Las Ventas Bullring © Kimberly Krol
The following day dawned sunny, and we resumed our itinerary. Bullfighting, controversial yet deeply entwined with Spanish history, led us to Las Ventas Bullring. We took a self-guided audio tour and standing in the center of the arena imagined both the glory and the suffering that unfolded there. The space carried an intense, almost palpable atmosphere.
Jill and I are eaters at heart; many of our fondest memories involve long dinners and plenty of conversation. Madrid did not disappoint. We reveled in tapas, sampled wines and indulged in mid-afternoon coffee and sweets. The city’s food scene became a highlight of our trip.
Churros and hot chocolate © Kimberly Krol
We followed culinary recommendations across neighborhoods: traditional tapas at Taberna Almendro in the Latin Quarter, cod at Casa Labra, Manchego at Taberna Malaspina and a celebrity-owned spot, La Bardemcilla de Santa Ana, for a touch of star power. For sweets we made a beeline to Chocolatería San Ginés for churros and thick hot chocolate, and to La Mallorquina, one of Madrid’s most beloved bakeries. Seeking authentic paella, we sampled a local favorite at El Pato Mudo. For a unique local spirit we tried madroño liqueur at El Madroño—made from the fruit of the madroño tree, a plant closely associated with Madrid and the Puerta del Sol statue of a bear reaching for its fruit.
Mercado de San Miguel deserves special mention for food lovers. A market site since 1916, it reopened in a refurbished form in 2009 and now houses an array of gourmet stalls offering everything from tapas to pastries, with wine bars and seating. It’s a top attraction for visitors and a popular spot with locals at any hour.
Our curiosity about Madrid’s passions took us next to Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, home of Real Madrid. Wandering the trophy hall, locker room, field and press areas among fervent fans, we felt the intensity and devotion of supporters. As visitors we appreciated the spectacle and the chance to peek behind the scenes at one of the world’s most famous clubs.
Modern art called the next day at the Reina Sofía. Emerging from the metro and entering through a striking glass façade, we found a contrast to the Prado: more open spaces, lighter galleries and immersive multimedia installations. Picasso’s works especially drew our attention and offered a different window into Spain’s artistic range.
That evening we searched for Café de Chinitas and eventually descended into its Flemish-style tablao, tucked in the basement of a 17th-century palace. The setting felt authentic and intimate: flamenco singing, dancing and rustic décor combined to create a sense of traditional Spain removed from tourist trappings. Later, from The Roof at ME Madrid Reina Victoria, we toasted the city’s skyline—an unforgettable view from the renovated Gran Hotel Reina Victoria.
Our final day had no fixed schedule. We enjoyed walking through neighborhoods, browsing a street market near Plaza de España and visiting the Debod Temple, an ancient Egyptian gift to Madrid installed in 1972. From Puerta del Sol we wandered the radiating streets to Plaza Mayor, pausing to shop and soak up the city’s energy.
We finished our visit in Retiro Park, admiring local artisans and street performers as joggers, cyclists and skateboarders passed. The park’s central lake and the artistically arranged stone steps, pillars and sculptures on the north shore are so picturesque they might have been painted by one of the masters we’d seen in the museums. And finally, happily indulging Jill’s persistent suggestion, I agreed to row a boat on the lake—an easy pleasure that perfectly rounded out our trip.
Where to Stay in Madrid
Hotel Ritz Madrid Overlooking the Museo Nacional del Prado, this 1910 Baroque hotel is ideal for art lovers and known for its elegant afternoon tea. Plaza de la Lealtad 5 $$$$
Occidental Miguel Ángel A convenient choice for business or leisure, with club-level benefits and a full gym for guests. Miguel Ángel 29-31 $$$$
Silken Hotel Puerta América Madrid A design-forward hotel where 19 architects created distinct floors, each with its own materials and color schemes. Av. de América 41 $$$
Restaurants in Madrid
Botín A historic choice—often cited as one of the oldest restaurants in the world—serving classic Spanish dishes. Calle de las Cuchilleros 17 $$$
El Jardín del InterContinental An intimate courtyard restaurant by Chef José Luque, perfect for alfresco dining, live music and a popular Sunday brunch. InterContinental Madrid, Paseo de la Castellana 49 $$$$
El Pato Mudo A cozy local favorite for traditional paella paired with Spanish wines. Calle de Costanilla de Los Ángeles 8 $$
Madrid Info to Go
Madrid-Barajas Airport (MAD) sits about 30 minutes from the city center depending on transport: bus, metro or taxi. Bus and metro fares are roughly €2 and a taxi into the city costs around €30. Madrid’s metro system is clean, efficient and convenient for getting around; ticket options range from single rides to unlimited day passes.