So prized are the knobbly little fungi found in the Langhe Hills around Alba, Italy, that they are often called white diamonds. The Alba white truffle reigns as the most aromatic, flavorful and coveted of its kind, prized by chefs who pay high prices to shave its paper-thin slices over signature dishes.
Even among Italy’s white truffles, those that grow beneath oak, hazel and beech in the forests surrounding Alba are the most sought after. The annual Fiera Internazionale Tartufo Bianco draws chefs, connoisseurs, gourmet merchants and travelers from around the world. This year’s White Truffle Fair runs from Oct. 11–Nov. 15, offering a concentrated celebration of the season.
In late October the Langhe Hills pulse with truffle activity, but the hub of excitement is Alba’s medieval center. A vast tent fills the arcaded Cortile della Maddalena, and inside is a sensory feast: the pungent, earthy aroma of truffles mingles with the scent of spiced cakes, peppery salami and mountain cheeses stacked on colorful stalls.
A truffle expert sniffing the quality of Alba truffles © Barbara Radcliffe Rogers
Vendors with booming voices invite visitors to sample Piedmont’s specialties — hazelnut-filled cakes from Cortemilia, dark chocolate studded with hazelnuts, tangy Toma from the Savoy Alps, Gorgonzola, and chewy nougat from Turin. Butchers in white aprons tempt passersby with thin slivers of prosciutto from nearby Bra, a town renowned for its cured meats.
The centerpiece of the fair lies beyond these temptations. In the heart of the tent the trifolai, the traditional truffle hunters, sit in rustic attire, looking every bit the woodsmen they are. Piles of rough, earthen truffles rest before them — unassuming in appearance but exuding an unmistakable, intoxicating perfume.
Chefs and traders move among the trifolai, sniffing, talking and bargaining amid lively banter. Surrounding the central trading area are stalls selling truffle oils, salts, pastas and other truffle-based products. Along the rear wall, guests gather at tables to savor plates of sizzling fried eggs crowned with generous shavings of white truffle, often accompanied by a glass of Barolo, Piedmont’s celebrated wine.
Beyond the tent, the festival spills into the town with medieval pageants, a traditional donkey race, a truffle bacchanal, a medieval market and chef demonstrations. The broader region offers more ways to enjoy the season: join a trifolao and his dog on a truffle hunt in the autumn woods, visit hilltop villages during the grape harvest for wine tastings, follow the Honey Trail to sample dark chestnut honeys, or dine at restaurants that showcase Piedmont’s abundant harvest.