Every great grape has a homeland — a country or region where it naturally reaches its best expression. Pinot Noir achieves its pinnacle in Burgundy. Nebbiolo comes into its own in Piedmont. Riesling finds its ideal climate and character in Germany.
Germany’s cool northern climate favors white grape varieties, so roughly two-thirds of its wine production is white. Riesling makes up about 20 percent of that total. Of the country’s 13 official wine regions, the Mosel and the Rheingau are most celebrated for producing the finest Rieslings. These wines are known for their fragrance, finesse and elegance, and they appear in a range of styles: dry (trocken); semi-dry (halb trocken); and Spätlese, made from grapes left on the vine longer to develop richer flavors and a spectrum from dry to lightly sweet. Germany’s classic dessert wines progress in sweetness and concentration from Auslese to Beerenauslese and on to the intensely sweet Trockenbeerenauslese. While sweetness and concentration often drive up price, there are many excellent, drier Rieslings available at moderate prices.
From the Rheingau, Domdechant Werner produces a balanced Riesling Kabinett 2011 (about $24) that offers a dewy, garden-like aroma, lively citrus acidity and a clean, lingering finish. The same producer’s Erstes Gewächs Riesling 2010 (around $50), from the renowned Kirchenstück vineyard, is a benchmark example of the region’s power and precision. Domdechant Werner’s 2011 Riesling Spätlese (approximately $35) is richer and simply gorgeous.
Weingut Georg Breuer’s Terra Montosa Riesling 2011 (about $30) is pale in color but surprisingly perfumed, with floral notes reminiscent of freshly cut blossoms. Their 2011 Riesling from the Nonnenberg vineyard (roughly $60) is similarly pale yet offers a clear apple-like fragrance and concentrated fruit on the palate.
From the Mosel, Weingut Michael Frank Riesling 2012 (around $15) presents a light appearance followed by an assertive, fragrant nose and firm fruit-driven flavors. Also from the Mosel, Weingut Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Spätlese 2011 (about $31) is on the drier side while displaying rich aromas of green apple and melon, pronounced minerality and a lingering finish.
Another strong value is Weingut Selbach-Oster Riesling Spätlese 2011 (near $11), a dry style with bright citrus fruit, a hint of honey and excellent balance.
Riesling is remarkably food-friendly. It pairs beautifully with chicken salad, shrimp and other light fish dishes, as well as many Chinese preparations, rabbit and pork. It is equally delightful on its own as an aperitif, where its floral aromatics and lively acidity make it feel like a garden in a glass.