It is centuries old, venerable and intriguing — yet surprisingly little known. Lagrein hails from Alto Adige, the northernmost wine region of Italy, which produces only about 1 percent of the country’s wine. Although Lagrein is the region’s signature red, it occupies only roughly 8 percent of Alto Adige’s vineyards.
Typical Lagrein shows aromas of red berries and other fruit, a touch of pepper, lively acidity, deep garnet color and a firm tannic backbone. Fortunately, several excellent Lagrein wines are available in the United States. In a recent tasting of 20 bottles, I found a number that clearly express these defining traits.
Cantina Andriano’s Tor di Lupo Lagrein Riserva 2007 ($45) offers an intense nose and ripe-plum flavors, bright acidity and a subtle, well-integrated oak influence.
Tiefenbrunner Lagrein Riserva Linticlarus 2007 ($30) demonstrates why Tiefenbrunner is considered one of Alto Adige’s top producers. Deep, perfumed flavors combine with a spicy thread; it is full-bodied and finishes extraordinarily long.
The youthful Cantina Bolzano Perl Lagrein 2009 ($24) shows zesty acidity and a light vanilla note.
Caldaro (Kellerei Kaltern) Lagrein 2009 ($20) is another young, easy-drinking example that highlights the grape’s essentials through a well-balanced relationship of acidity and tannin.
Kurtatsch-Cortaccia Frauriegl Lagrein 2007 ($25) is focused and medium-full, an appealing wine with a satisfying finish.
Griesbauerhof produced two impressive examples: Lagrein 2009, a fresh, lively wine with jaunty acidity and youthful energy; and Lagrein Riserva 2008, a forward, berry-driven and sprightly bottling.
Elena Walch Lagrein 2009 ($19) displays excellent balance, bright youthful character and a long, pleasant finish.
Castelfeder Lagrein Riserva Burgum Novum 2005 ($50) shows the rewards of a few years’ aging. Its concentrated, mature aromas suggest toast with a hint of coffee; the palate is compact, balanced and leaves a long, memorable finish.
Alto Adige also has a long tradition of producing Lagrein as a rosé. Alois Lageder’s Lagrein Rosato 2010 ($17) is deep pink, fruity and fresh, with a fine harmony between sweetness and acidity.