BEYOND THE GILDED LUSTER of Venice lies a diverse region of culture and cuisine waiting to be explored. Friuli-Venezia Giulia — Italy’s northeasternmost region bordering Austria and Slovenia — is a gastronomic treasure known for exceptional wines, cheeses and cured meats.
Less than two hours by car from Venice, Friuli (as locals call it) is an ideal place for a multi-day culinary escape after business hours. Towns are close together and each offers a distinct character. Boutique bed-and-breakfasts range from rustic to refined, all with their own personality and warm hospitality.
Though one of Italy’s smaller regions, Friuli has long been a crossroads between Italy and Central and Eastern Europe. Its compact territory hosts varied landscapes: the Alps rise in the north; the hilly Collio and eastern areas border Slovenia and produce notable wines; the south meets the Adriatic Sea; and the western edge eases into the sandy plains of Veneto.
Roman foundations can be found throughout the region, while Austro-Hungarian influences remain visible in architecture and cuisine. Friuli is divided into four provinces — Pordenone, Udine, Gorizia and Trieste — each offering a unique mix of history, geography and gastronomy that rewards exploration.
Aerial view of Palmanova, the star-shaped city © FABRY974 | DREAMSTIME.COM
Begin in Palmanova in the province of Udine. This concentric city, built in a distinctive star shape, was designed in the late 16th century as a Venetian military stronghold on the eastern frontier. Architect Vincenzo Scamozzi applied the latest military design of the era: a nine-pointed fortress with ramparts arranged for overlapping fields of fire and a protective moat, making Palmanova an exemplar of Renaissance urban planning.
Founded in 1593 to mark a victory in the War of Cyprus, Palmanova later received further fortifications under Napoleon. Today the town is remarkably well preserved, centered on a piazza lined with cafés such as Caffetteria Torinese and pastry shops like Nonna Pallina. Local residents welcome visitors warmly — be prepared to linger over a glass of Prosecco and sample sun-dried tomatoes and olives at neighborhood spots like Al Gambero.
From Palmanova, travel to Cormòns in Gorizia province, where about 10 percent of the population is ethnically Slovene. Here the D’Osvaldo family has been curing hams since 1940. While prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto di San Daniele are widely known, prosciutto D’Osvaldo is a regional specialty. Giacomo D’Osvaldo introduced smoked curing techniques from Eastern Europe, a tradition now upheld through four generations.
The family operates its prosciutto production from an antique villa dating to 1800, where guests can see hams preserved and smoked over a balanced mix of cherry and laurel wood — a process that imparts a subtle sweetness to the meat.
Nestled in the Collio hills, La Subida is a family-run eco-resort and a must-visit for food lovers. The Sirk family combines rustic charm with high culinary standards: wooden cabins with large windows sit among the trees, and the on-site trattoria serves handcrafted regional dishes. Josko Sirk produces whole-grape wine vinegar on the estate, aged for years in small casks and bottled without filtering or added sulfites — a point of pride he shares during tours of his vinegar house.
For a leisurely lunch on your way north, stop at La Frasca near Lauzacco, where vintner Valter Scarbolo pairs inventive courses with his wines. The cozy setting invites long meals; many visitors spend several hours enjoying multi-course tastings and local vintages.
In Cividale del Friuli, consider staying at Orsone, a refined concept by mother-son restaurateurs Lidia and Joe Bastianich. Orsone combines a comfortable bed-and-breakfast with a taverna and a restaurant, set among the family vineyards. Before dinner, stroll into the town center across the Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge) over the Natisone River and join locals for an evening spritz at Caffè del Corso.
Dinner at Orsone is relaxed yet elegant, often enjoyed by the fireplace. The service is attentive and international, and the Bastianich wines complement the seasonal courses. Staying on site lets you savor the meal without rushing — your room is just upstairs.
Venica & Venica wine barrels © VENICA & VENICA
Nearby in Dolegna del Collio, the Venica family estate blends winery, B&B and family home. For more than 80 years the family has cultivated vines and fruit trees, originally to sustain the household and later to supply local restaurants. Over time they honed farming practices to enhance biodiversity and achieve balance in their wines. Giampaolo Venica now represents the Venica & Venica label internationally, welcoming guests to taste wines and stay on the picturesque property while serving as an ambassador for Friulian viticulture.
Friuli Info to Go
International flights arrive at Venice Marco Polo Airport, from which it’s less than a 90-minute drive into Friuli. Trieste–Friuli-Venezia Giulia Airport also offers access to the region. Renting a car is the most convenient way to explore the varied towns, vineyards and landscapes.
Restaurants in Friuli
LA FRASCA A roadside trattoria serving elevated, unpretentious dishes paired with the owner’s wines. Viale Grado 50, Lauzacco.
ORSONE RISTORANTE A dining room anchored by a blazing hearth where local ingredients are used with precision and care. Via Darnazzacco 63, Cividale del Friuli.
TRATTORIA AL CACCIATORE DELLA SUBIDA Family-run dining that feels like a shared meal at a friend’s home; genuine hospitality and regional specialties. Via Subida 52, Cormòns.
Where to Stay in Friuli
ORSONE B&B A chic four-room boutique property with a casual taverna and refined restaurant, offering a stylish base in Cividale del Friuli. Via Darnazzacco 63.
LA SUBIDA A forested eco-resort near the Slovenian border with family-run hospitality, two restaurants and countryside activities. Via Subida 52, Cormòns.
VENICA & VENICA CASA A cozy B&B on the Venica estate with rooms and apartments, plus swimming, tennis and biking to complement wine tastings. Dolegna del Collio, Gorizia.