It can be hard to tear yourself away from the colorful shops and cafés that populate central Melbourne, but this is a waterfront city — and the beach is worth the short trip. About three miles south of the center lies the vibrant, bohemian suburb of St. Kilda, where a historic pier extends into Port Phillip Bay, the Esplanade runs along the shoreline, and restaurants and cafés line the streets.
St. Kilda’s history is captivating: once the city’s red-light district, the neighborhood has evolved into an upscale and trendy destination. A breakwater reaches into the bay and offers a vantage point for spotting the small penguin colony that has lived here since the 1970s. The breezy conditions make it a popular spot for kite surfers, and lessons are available for newcomers. Every Sunday a lively arts, crafts and local foods market occupies the curve of the Esplanade, and at the far end of the precinct nostalgia-seekers can enter Luna Park through the famous clown mouth and ride the Scenic Railway — the world’s oldest continuously operating roller coaster.
Luna Park amusement park at St. Kilda Beach © CHU-WEN LIN | DREAMSTIME.COM
The neighborhood’s social heartbeat is found around Fitzroy and Acland streets, where locals and visitors gather in a lively collection of restaurants and bars. Rococo on Acland serves generous antipasti boards alongside risotto, panini and thin-crust red or white pizzas. In the intimate dining room of long-standing favorite Café Di Stasio you’ll find chef-driven “Italianalty” dishes, fresh pasta made twice daily and classic Negronis served at a high marble bar. The rebuilt Stokehouse on the Beach has reopened its fish-and-chips kiosk and the Pontoon restaurant after the fire of 2014. Claypots Seafood Bar is known for its seafood selection, while the seaside institution Donovans offers a comfortable, elegant experience with floor-to-ceiling windows, sofas and sandstone fireplaces. From Donovans’ menu, try the popular grilled snapper with lemon — a particular favorite of Australian entertainer Barry Humphries, also known as Dame Edna Everage.
St. Kilda’s cultural venues draw major performers and varied programming. The historic Art Deco Palais Theatre has hosted acts from Trevor Noah to Julio Iglesias, and nearby the National Theatre Melbourne presents concerts, ballet and stage shows. After a day of seaside activity, a two-hour Renew or Unwind treatment at the Aurora Spa in the modern Prince Hotel provides a relaxing way to finish your visit.