Thunder rumbles as James and I hurry hand in hand from St. Stephen’s Green toward Aungier Street and the Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church. Here, a portion of St. Valentine’s relics—gifts from Pope Gregory XVI in the 19th century—rest in Dublin. James has been married to me long enough to know that the promise of a saint, poet, philosopher, or a good story won’t be spoiled by a little rain. For seekers of such adventures, Dublin delivers.
Dublin is an enchanting mix of ancient and modern. The city likely began as an early Christian settlement, later repopulated by separate Viking and Gaelic communities around 841, when it was known as Dubh Linn—“black pool”—a name that reflects the murky junction of the Poddle and Liffey rivers.
Although the Poddle is largely hidden today, the River Liffey remains a defining feature, slicing through the city and bordering the historic quarter of Temple Bar. Temple Bar is Dublin’s cultural heart, where traces of old Dublin are strongest. Extending south from the river to Dame Street, this area escaped the sweeping Georgian-era redevelopment that reshaped much of the city in the 18th century. Its narrow, cobbled streets and slips preserve the medieval street pattern. Today those lanes form a lively hub of galleries, pubs, shops and museums.
Temple Bar offers a rich cultural scene: the Projects Arts Centre, Temple Bar Music Centre, the Irish Photography Centre (comprising the Gallery of Photography, the National Photographic Archives and the Dublin Institute of Photography), and the Irish Film Institute are all here. In summer, films are often shown outdoors in Meeting House Square, creating a perfect starlit setting for an evening out.
We arrive in Dublin a bit early for the Gaiety Theatre production of The Importance of Being Earnest, starring Stockard Channing as Lady Bracknell, but it’s a weekend, so the city is alive. On Saturdays year-round, the Temple Bar Food Market fills with stalls offering farmer’s produce, smoked fish, artisanal meats and baked goods. We taste local cheeses, smoked fish and pastries, and leave with ripe organic fruit and handmade chocolates for a later picnic.
East of Temple Bar, bounded by Pearse and Nassau streets, Trinity College rises grandly. Founded in 1592, Trinity houses Ireland’s largest library and welcomes visitors to exhibits and lectures. Priceless manuscripts, including the illustrated Book of Kells, are on display most days.
Standing before the Book of Kells, the tragic legend of Tristan and Isolde drifts to mind: Isolde, an Irish princess promised to King Mark of Cornwall, falls in love with his nephew Tristan after they mistakenly share a love potion aboard the ship to her wedding. Though she marries the king, the tale of forbidden love endures. A ruined tower said to honor Isolde still stands on lower Exchange Street, south of the river, though it’s gated and rarely open to the public.
Across the Liffey in Parnell Square, near Findlater’s Church, the Dublin Writers Museum occupies a row of elegant Georgian houses. Inside, manuscripts, typewriters and personal items belonging to literary luminaries—James Joyce, W. B. Yeats, Samuel Beckett, Oscar Wilde and George Bernard Shaw, among others—are displayed alongside materials by modern writers. Visitors can take tours or explore the exhibits and bookshop at leisure.
No visit is complete without seeing Dublin Castle on Dame Street, a vast complex that hosts concerts, exhibits and events. The castle’s gardens sit above the historic meeting point of the Poddle and the Liffey. A short walk away is Christ Church Cathedral, whose original wooden church dates to 1038 and was later rebuilt in stone by Richard de Clare, known as Strongbow.
Nearby Saint Mary’s Abbey, reached by a stone stairway from Meetinghouse Lane, dates to 1139; only two rooms survive, but local archaeological displays make the visit rewarding. After exploring, we indulge in a romantic Champagne Art Tea at The Merrion Hotel. Presented in the hotel’s elegant drawing rooms, the tea pairs sweet and savory treats inspired by Dublin’s poets and artists—raspberry and passionfruit tart, rosewater and orange mousse, and mango panna cotta among them.
Bolstered by Champagne, we stroll to Merrion Square as a gentle rain begins. Dubliners favor restrained elegance over flash, umbrellas held with a certain stylish brio. On weekends, artists display work around the square; at this hour it’s quiet except for two chattering magpies—symbols of long-term pairings. James smiles and says the birds approve our togetherness.
Nearby, a statue of Oscar Wilde reclines on a boulder, his jacket’s crimson collar prominent. James grins, whispers “Come with me, grá mo chroí” in his best Irish accent—“love of my heart”—and we continue through a city that manages to be both intimate and grand, ancient and alive.
Info to Go
Dublin Airport (DUB) is roughly a 15-minute drive from the city center, depending on traffic. There is no direct rail link to the airport, so plan to use a taxi, car hire or bus and coach services such as Airlink, Coach and Dublin Bus.
Lodging
The Harcourt Hotel
Housed in a row of eight Georgian buildings and once home to George Bernard Shaw, this hotel overlooks St. Stephen’s Green. 60 Harcourt St., tel 353 1 478 3677, $$$
The Merrion
An award-winning hotel with 123 rooms and 19 suites, centrally located and featuring an acclaimed spa. Upper Merrion Street, tel 353 1 603 0600, $$$$
The Westbury Hotel
Contemporary luxury with classic Irish charm on Grafton Street. Member of The Leading Hotels of the World. Grafton Street, tel 353 1 679 1122, $$$$
Dining
Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill
Chef Richard Corrigan serves classic Irish dishes with a modern edge. Open for lunch and dinner with Sunday lunch 1–4 p.m. 22 St. Stephen’s Green, tel 353 1 638 3939, $$$
Chapter One
Enjoy Irish Angus beef in this Michelin-starred restaurant located near the Dublin Writers Museum. Open Tuesday–Saturday for lunch and dinner; Chef’s Table available. 8-19 Parnell Square, tel 353 1 873 2266, $$$
Salon des Saveurs
Reserve ahead for chef Conrad Gallagher’s tasting menu. Open Monday–Saturday with a pre-theatre menu. 16 Aungier St., tel 353 1 475 8840, $$$