“Simplicity is elegant. Two or three components that are treated with care in their preparation, with simple touches, nothing exaggerated.” This reflects the culinary philosophy of Chef Enrique Olvera, a guiding principle he applies as executive chef for Mexicana Airlines. Widely regarded as one of Mexico’s leading chefs, Olvera trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York and honed his skills at Everest in Chicago. He later returned to Mexico City to open Pujol, a restaurant that celebrates Mexico’s culinary heritage while reinterpreting flavors, techniques and presentations to create a contemporary dining experience.
Before designing his first in-flight menu for Mexicana Airlines, Olvera spent five months traveling the airline’s routes — from Canada to Argentina — studying regional cuisines and discovering how to incorporate those flavors into meals served on board.
If you find yourself in Mexico City, a visit to Pujol is recommended to sample the refined, thoughtful dishes that define Olvera’s approach.
Robalito al pastor with cilantro chile salad
Serves 4
For the fish:
4 6-ounce sea bass or haddock fillets, skinless
For the marinade:
1 guajillo chile, deveined and chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 ounces achiote paste
1/2 onion, peeled and chopped
1 tomato, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup orange juice
Salt, to taste
3 tablespoons clarified butter
Lemon juice, for deglazing
Heat vegetable oil in a sauté pan and add the guajillo and garlic. Stir in the achiote paste, onion, tomato and orange juice, cooking over medium heat until the ingredients form a smooth, homogeneous sauce. Pass the mixture through a chinois or fine sieve and let it cool. Once cooled, immerse the fish fillets in the marinade and refrigerate until ready to cook.
To cook, season the marinated fish with salt. Heat the clarified butter in a sauté pan and sear the fish. Finish in a 400°F (200°C) oven for about 5 minutes. Remove the fish and set aside. Deglaze the pan with a splash of lemon juice to capture the fond.
For the pineapple beurre blanc:
1/2 cup butter
1/2 fresh pineapple, peeled, cored and cubed
1 1/3 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt, to taste
Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the pineapple and cook until very soft. Reduce the mixture by half, then stir in the lemon juice and season with salt. Strain or blend the sauce until smooth and keep warm for plating.
For the cilantro chile salad:
1 bunch cilantro
1 serrano pepper, seeded and chopped
1/2 onion, chopped
Salt, to taste
Combine the cilantro, serrano and onion, season lightly with salt and set aside until plating.
For the tortillas:
4 corn tortillas, cut into thin strips
Vegetable oil, for frying
Fry the tortilla strips in hot oil until crisp, then drain on paper towel.
For the garnish:
1/4 under-ripe pineapple
Using a mandolin, slice the under-ripe pineapple into very thin slivers. Arrange the slivers on a baking sheet and dehydrate in a low oven (about 212°F / 100°C) for 90 minutes until dried and slightly chewy. Reserve for plating.
Assembly and presentation:
Place a handful of fried tortilla strips on each plate. Spoon a generous layer of pineapple beurre blanc over the tortillas, then top with a seared fish fillet. Add a mound of cilantro chile salad beside the fish and finish with a few dried pineapple slivers for texture and contrast.
Mole de olla
Serves 4
For the ribs:
1 3/4 pounds boneless short ribs
Salt, to taste
2/3 cup vegetable oil
Cut the meat into 3-inch cubes and season with salt. Heat the oil in a sauté pan and sear the cubes evenly on all sides. Set aside.
For the sauce:
2 tomatillos (green tomatoes)
1 red tomato
2 cloves garlic
1/2 white onion
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 ancho chile peppers, seeded
2 guajillo chile peppers, seeded
Cumin, to taste
Salt, to taste
Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook the tomatillos, garlic, red tomato and onion until softened. In a separate pan, lightly fry the ancho and guajillo chiles in the oil to release their aromas without burning them. Add the toasted chiles to the cooked tomatillo mixture and simmer gently for about 40 minutes. Season with salt and cumin, then blend until smooth and strain through a chinois for a refined texture.
Combine the seared meat and the strained sauce in a casserole, adding enough water to just cover the meat. Place in a low oven and cook for about 4 hours, or until the meat is fork-tender. Remove the meat and keep warm while you reduce the sauce on the stovetop to the desired consistency. Adjust seasoning and pass the sauce through a chinois again if necessary.
For the carrot purée:
2/3 pound carrots
2 1/4 cups water
Salt, to taste
Peel and cut the carrots into small pieces. Combine water and salt in a bowl and add the carrots, letting them rest for 45 minutes. Drain and reserve the carrots, then blend until smooth. Strain the purée through a fine sieve to achieve a silky, creamy texture.
For the chayote purée:
2/3 pound chayote
2 1/4 cups water
Salt, to taste
Peel and quarter the chayote. Soak the pieces in salted water for about 1 hour, then drain. Blend the chayote until smooth and pass through a fine strainer to separate a smooth purée and reserve the fine pulp for texture if desired.
For the corn:
2/3 cup white corn kernels
2/3 cup yellow corn kernels
2/3 cup blue corn kernels
6 cups water
Salt, to taste
Divide the salted water into three saucepans and bring to a boil. Cook each color of corn kernels separately until tender, then rinse and set aside to maintain distinct colors and textures for plating.
For the zucchini:
1 zucchini
1/2 pound French-style string beans
1/4 cup butter
Salt, to taste
Use a mandolin to slice the zucchini lengthwise into thin ribbons. Blanch the ribbons in boiling salted water for about 10 seconds until pliable, then roll them and set aside. Cook the string beans in boiling salted water until tender, shock in cold water, halve lengthwise and set aside.
For the garnish:
Cumin powder
Presentation:
Warm the vegetables briefly with a little water, salt and butter. Reheat the sauce and add the meat to warm through. On each plate, artistically spoon the carrot and chayote purées as small drops or streaks. Arrange zucchini rolls, string beans and a mix of the cooked corn kernels. Place two or three pieces of short rib on each plate, spooning the reduced mole sauce over the meat. Finish with a light line or dusting of cumin powder as a fragrant garnish.