THE FIRST THING TO KNOW about touring Tangier: don’t go without a guide. On our first day we tried exploring alone and were repeatedly approached by aggressive escorts offering services and shops. The next day we hired Aziz Begdouri and immediately noticed the difference. With him leading the way, we felt protected and free to enjoy the city. Locals greeted Begdouri with respect; he is the owner of Hotel La Maison Blanche in the old quarter and has built a strong reputation.
Begdouri and Ahmed Taoumi, a former president of Tangier’s professional guides association, are experienced guides who speak excellent English and come highly recommended.
Most visitors arrive in Tangier by ferry from Spain, either independently or as part of a package tour. Regardless of how you get there, a professional guide who avoids steering you into relatives’ shops is invaluable. You can find private guides through vetted platforms and reputable tour operators that include guided Tangier itineraries. Using a well-reviewed guide makes it easier to navigate the medina and ensures a more authentic experience.
PHOTOS: © KATHERINE RODEGHIER
Tangier is easy to visit on a day trip or as an overnight stay. Most visitors concentrate on the old quarter, the medina, which features 15th-century fortifications within the kasbah and a network of narrow streets lined with buildings in a range of colors and architectural styles, including Islamic, Berber, and Art Deco. The markets are lively, filled with fresh produce, and artisan shops offer rugs, mosaics, and traditional crafts.
In the early 20th century Tangier gained a reputation as a hub for spies and shady characters, later attracting wealthy expats and socialites like heiress Barbara Hutton. Beat Generation writers such as Jack Kerouac and William S. Burroughs frequented the cafés around the Petit Socco; today those cafés still serve mint tea and provide people-watching opportunities. Tangier declined in the mid-20th century but has seen significant revitalization under King Mohammed VI, restoring many neighborhoods and cultural sites.
Don’t miss the Kasbah Museum, housed in a former sultan’s palace, which displays art and archaeological finds that trace the region’s long history. Nearby, the Tangier American Legation, another historic residence once used for U.S. diplomatic missions, now functions as a museum and cultural center. The legation highlights historic links between Tangier, the United States, and Europe and includes exhibits related to notable residents, including belongings of writer Paul Bowles.