Izmir: A City of Marvels and Timeless Wonders

 

 

 

Levent Kalkan/Dreamstime.com

Children are fascinated by camels and by wrestling, so a family trip to İzmir province in Turkey during the third weekend of January can be irresistible. That is when local camel-wrestling festivals take place, offering a lively, unusual spectacle that draws both locals and visitors.

The contests are staged at the height of the rutting season, and the competing animals are all male. Brought from across the country, the camels meet in a natural arena near the ancient ruins of Ephesus, often before crowds of up to 20,000 people. With female camels absent, the males direct their seasonal aggression at one another.

For safety, the camels’ mouths are muzzled to prevent biting. Matches proceed one-on-one, with bouts continuing throughout the day. The animals use their necks and legs for leverage; there is more noise, show and spit than serious injury. A match ends when one camel retreats from the ring.

During the festival, the nearby town of Selçuk takes on a carnival atmosphere. Before the wrestling begins, camels adorned with colorful saddles are paraded through busy streets, accompanied by traditional musicians. Many animals carry names inspired by famous figures, producing whimsical matchups that reflect both local humor and global pop culture.

Despite occasional Western references, the festival is distinctly Turkish and rooted in centuries-old custom. The noisy excitement mixes with the aroma of kebabs and the beat of drummers while singers perform familiar local songs. Spectators cheer at every decisive moment. For children and adults alike, the event is an immersive glimpse into a living tradition and an evocative encounter with the past.

Nearby, the ruins of Ephesus reveal even older layers of history. One of the best-preserved classical cities, Ephesus offers evidence of human settlement stretching back millennia. It later grew into a major center of Ancient Greece and, under Roman rule, became one of the largest cities in the world.

Visiting in January generally means fewer crowds; in summer, it’s wise to arrive as close as possible to the 8 a.m. opening to enjoy the marble-paved streets with a measure of solitude. Visitors can explore bathhouses and a Roman public latrine, pose beside the ornate doorway of the Library of Celsus, sit on the worn stone steps of the Great Theater, and—if they pay the additional fee—enter the original painted interiors of preserved Roman houses.

By mid-morning in high season, Ephesus fills with day-trippers from Aegean resorts, and temperatures rise quickly under the Mediterranean sun. For a cooling break and family-friendly fun, Aqua Fantasy at Ephesus Beach is a large water park with slides and rides where adults and children can play together.

Close to the water park is a very different kind of attraction: the modest stone building known as Mary’s House, where tradition holds that the Virgin Mary spent her later years. The site is a place of pilgrimage for Christians and Muslims alike, and visitors often leave pieces of cloth with written prayers at a nearby wall.

Traveling north from Ephesus brings you to İzmir, Turkey’s third-largest city. Historically known as Smyrna, the city has long been a meeting point between Europe, Asia and North Africa. Its recent past was dramatically altered in 1922, when conflict and fire led to a large departure of the city’s Greek population and a reshaping of İzmir’s identity.

Despite these changes, echoes of the past remain. The city’s bazaar area preserves a sense of continuity: narrow streets, traders and a busy atmosphere that recalls centuries of commerce. The covered market Kızlarağası Han offers vaulted alleys where merchants sell souvenirs, jewelry, textiles and spices, while nearby excavations reveal the Agora, an ancient marketplace more than 2,500 years old.

İzmir’s strategic position is reflected in its layered history. On a hill south of the city center stands Kadifekale Fortress, originally established in 334 B.C. by Alexander the Great and later used by Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. From its stone battlements you can take in panoramic views of the city and İzmir Bay, though you should expect the imbat, a strong afternoon wind off the Aegean.

Evenings along the waterfront are a central part of İzmir life. Starting at Konak Square with its Ottoman clock tower and nearby mosque, a stroll along the Kordon—an elegant tiled promenade—takes you past the old wharf and into a wide park. Families picnic on the grass, friends meet at outdoor cafés, and children cruise on skateboards near monuments that honor Turkey’s independence.

Ferries cross the bay while cargo ships arrive from distant ports, a reminder that İzmir remains a modern city shaped by long-standing maritime rhythms. The combination of ancient sites, vibrant markets and seaside life makes the region around İzmir and Ephesus rich in experiences for families and history-minded travelers.

Info To Go

Flights arrive at İzmir Adnan Menderes International Airport (ADB), about 11 miles southeast of downtown. A shuttle bus service runs regularly between the airport and the city center. Ephesus is roughly an hour’s drive south of İzmir and can be reached by rental car or on a full-day guided tour. Local tour operators offer family-friendly excursions to the archaeological sites. Plan ahead for schedules and entry fees when arranging transportation and guided visits.

Lodging

EGE PALAS BUSINESS HOTEL

Upper-floor rooms offer good views at this high-rise near the waterfront. Cumhuriyet Bulvarı 210, Alsancak. $$$

HILTON İZMIR
Located close to the old town with views of İzmir Bay and convenient access to the airport. $$–$$$$

SWISSÔTEL GRAND EFES İZMIR
A long-established property recently refurbished with contemporary décor; request a sea-view room for the best outlook. $$$$

Dining

ALTIN KAPI

A popular local kebab chain with several branches across the city, serving affordable, authentic Turkish dishes. Alsancak. $$

ARTEMIS RESTAURANT & WINE HOUSE
Located in the mountain village of Şirince near Ephesus, this restaurant occupies an old schoolhouse and is known for its pleasant atmosphere and local flavors. $$

MANZARA RESTAURANT
Perched on the 19th floor of a city hotel, this restaurant offers sweeping views of İzmir Bay; reservations are recommended. $$$