A mouthful of a name, Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo is a region of two distinct personalities. Ixtapa was planned and built as a resort destination by the Mexican government—similar in intent to Cancún and Los Cabos, though on a smaller scale—while Zihuatanejo began life as a quiet fishing town. Zihuatanejo still feels like a lived-in place: low-rise hotels, narrow streets and a real-town rhythm, rather than a purpose-built resort strip.
The town’s past isn’t marked by grand colonial forts so much as practical shelter and maritime commerce. Playa Madera—“wood beach”—earned its name from historical timber shipments. Local lore says Playa la Ropa—“clothing beach”—was named after garments that washed ashore when a trading vessel sank nearby. Playa las Gatas refers to the whiskered, toothless nurse sharks seen among the reef.
I’ve been returning to this coastline for years. Once my family booked a last-minute trip to Zihuatanejo without reserving a hotel in advance; on another occasion, three generations enjoyed a hedonistic week at an Ixtapa resort where we barely left the property. On my most recent visit we split our time between both sides of the region: two nights on the beautiful Playa la Ropa in Zihuatanejo, then a stay at a newer all-inclusive resort in Ixtapa.
At Viceroy Zihuatanejo, a frequent pick on “best resort” lists, staff welcomed us with cool towels and a refreshing hibiscus-infused drink. Our suite had an outdoor plunge pool, but the beach called. Playa la Ropa is a gentle crescent long enough for a walk yet sheltered in a small bay. The surf is friendly—swell enough for boogie boarding without the rough undertow you can find elsewhere on the Pacific. My daughter and I spent hours taking turns riding waves while my wife relaxed with a book on an oversized lounge chair.
Our culinary exploration began at La Marea that first evening. With torches flickering in the ocean breeze and a marimba duo playing, the restaurant’s open kitchen served dishes plated with care. The menu leans European with veal, lamb and quail, yet fresh local seafood is the centerpiece—caught that day and showcased simply and well. We finished with a dessert sampler that vanished quickly.
The next dinner offered sweeping views from the bluff at Kau-Kan, a hilltop restaurant that overlooks Zihuatanejo’s bay and the twinkling lights on the hillsides. The meal unfolded from a silky garlic corn soup to expertly grilled shrimp, tender tuna and an octopus my wife declared the best she’d tasted—each course highlighting local ingredients and precise technique.
Between meals we wandered Zihuatanejo’s central market and watched fishermen display their daily catch on the town beach. It’s a tourist town, but one where local life persists: taco stands, tortilla sellers, laundromats and simple neighborhood bars mix with boutique shops and restaurants. The pace is real, even in low season.
Ixtapa feels different—the commercial zone quieter because many visitors remain on all-inclusive grounds. We admired the marina’s sleek yachts, walked Playa Linda—a popular local beach—and visited a crocodile reserve that houses dozens of reptiles along with iguanas. In late March the trees were full of large pink birds: roseate spoonbills, named for their distinctive spoon-shaped bills, a striking seasonal sight.
Swimming with
a dolphin in Ixtapa © Tim Leffel
At Azul Ixtapa Grand All Suites we embraced the family-resort rhythm. One highlight was Delfiniti, where we swam with dolphins. The animals were playful and affectionate—kissing, clapping and performing impressive behaviors. I experienced being towed by a dolphin and launched out of the water as two animals pushed me upward by my feet—an exhilarating finale to the session.
We also took a boat to Ixtapa Island’s Coral Beach. With flippers on, we snorkeled along the reef and saw glowing-blue fish, indigo wrasses and solitary black puffer fish spotted with white. After snorkeling we relaxed with ceviche tostadas, fried fish and cold beers—my daughter sipped fresh coconut water through a straw.
I broke away for a round of golf at Marina Ixtapa Golf Club, a Robert Von Hagge-designed links-style course. The layout is challenging, with abundant sand traps and water hazards on many holes. The course opened in 1994 alongside marina development, but economic setbacks kept surrounding land largely undeveloped—resulting in a tranquil, 136-acre layout within walking distance of Ixtapa’s commercial area. Clubs can be rented and caddies hired.
An iguana in Ixtapa © Tim Leffel
Meanwhile the family enjoyed the resort amenities: an infinity pool with ocean views, a swim-up bar tucked in a grotto behind a waterfall, and a kid-friendly snack bar and game room. All-inclusive conveniences make it easy for parents and children to unwind—a draw for visitors escaping colder climates to relax without worrying about logistics.
On our final night we left our teenager with room service and a movie, and went to Capella Ixtapa for a refined dinner at A Mares. Air-conditioned dining and a four-course tasting menu showcased contemporary Mexican cuisine built around seafood in creative presentations. My meal included crab and avocado salad, duck tamale and grilled fish layered over vibrant vegetables.
For dessert I chose a comforting classic: churros with Mexican hot chocolate. Though fine dining is a highlight in the region, the simple beachfront meals served on plastic plates under a palapa also have great appeal. Ultimately the main attractions are the ocean views, the beautiful beaches and the hidden coves that make Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa special.
Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo Info to Go
Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo International Airport is relatively small and can struggle during peak season; expansion has been discussed as development projects move forward. Several airlines fly from U.S. and Canadian gateways. Collective shuttle transfers to hotels typically cost about $10. Taxi rides from the airport to resorts take around 15–30 minutes and generally cost between $30 and $38. Some hotels include shuttle service as part of their rates.
Where to Stay in Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo
Azul Ixtapa Grand All Suites An all-suite, all-inclusive property offering whirlpools and ocean-view balconies for many rooms, plus multiple à la carte dining options. Paseo Punta Ixtapa, Lot 2, Hotel Zone II, Ixtapa
Capella Ixtapa Resort & Spa Built down a steep cliff on several levels, many rooms feature private plunge pools with ocean views. Boulevard Paseo Playa Linda, Hotel Zone II, Ixtapa
Viceroy Zihuatanejo A relaxed luxury property spread along nearly 600 feet of beachfront with multiple pools and a small number of guestrooms for an intimate feel. Playa la Ropa S/N, Zihuatanejo
Restaurants in Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo
A Mares Restaurant An elegant dining room at Capella Ixtapa, offering gourmet reinterpretations of Mexican cuisine and seasonal tasting menus. Capella Ixtapa Resort, Hotel Zone II, Ixtapa
Kau-Kan Restaurant Hilltop dining with panoramic bay views and seafood-focused preparations by a Paris-trained chef; notable for tender octopus and expertly grilled daily catches. Carretera Escénica, Lot 7, Zihuatanejo
La Marea Beachfront dining at Viceroy Zihuatanejo with an open kitchen and an extensive wine collection, ideal for a memorable meal accompanied by ocean breezes. Viceroy Resort, Playa la Ropa S/N, Zihuatanejo