My husband and I scramble up a steep, rocky trail, following hand-lettered signs toward the Great Wall. At first there is little to see but dense foliage, but around a bend we catch our first glimpse of the world-famous fortification. It is massive. At the top we find ourselves alone, accompanied only by birdsong and the rustle of wind through the trees. The view of the wall snaking relentlessly over the mountains to the hazy horizon is intoxicating.
On a climb to a dramatic, unreconstructed section of the Great Wall, we arranged private access through an unusual hotel — Commune by the Great Wall — located a little more than an hour outside Beijing. Commune can organize an elaborate multicourse lunch atop the wall, but we opted for a simple dinner carried in a knapsack: real silverware, linen napkins, crystal goblets and a good bottle of wine. We popped the cork at sunset. As darkness fell, the setting transported us back in time — until several hotel staff arrived with flashlights to escort us down.
Set amid a mountainous forest, Commune by the Great Wall is not a conventional hotel but a collection of architecturally significant villas, each designed by a noted Asian architect. The property won the architecture prize at the 2002 Venice Biennale, making it a compelling stay for anyone who loves design and interior architecture. A major advantage: most rooms offer views of the Great Wall.
Locally known as the Long Wall, the Great Wall extends for more than 13,000 miles in total when all its branches are counted. Some sections date back more than 2,300 years, constructed as fortifications along the historic border between China and Mongolia. Much of the 5,500-mile-long continuous portion visited by tourists was built by hand during the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) from brick, stone and tamped earth. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The most famous and most visited section is Badaling. Commune by the Great Wall can provide a hotel car to take guests to the main ticket office, where a cable car ascends to the restored watchtowers. Driving from Beijing takes roughly 90 minutes. Near Badaling, Juyong Pass is worth a stop to see its imposing castle-fortress.
Mutianyu is slightly less crowded and ideal if you’re short on time. This section features 22 beautifully restored watchtowers and can be experienced in under a day from Beijing. For speed, take the chairlift to the summit, watch the sunset, then return by sliding down on a single-person bobsled for a fun finish to the visit.
For a more authentic and quieter experience, Jianshanling offers dramatic vistas and fewer tourists. This six-mile stretch includes five high-altitude passes and 67 watchtowers, many retaining original features such as 16th-century inscriptions on the walls. Expect serious climbing and rewarding scenery.
The bold and physically fit may seek the steep, wild Jiankou section. With narrow ridgelines, sheer drops and vantage points close to the level of soaring eagles, every photograph is striking. For guided options, multi-day hiking tours include overnights in simple guesthouses and even camping directly on the wall for an immersive experience.
Gubei Water Town
PHOTO: © HBCS0084 – DREAMSTIME.COM
Gubei Water Town, conveniently located near the Simatai section, is a modern resort designed to resemble an imperial Qing Dynasty town. Though it can feel themed, real residents inhabit the hutongs and courtyard houses along narrow stone streets. At night the wall is illuminated and visitors climb carrying lanterns; the sight of hundreds of bobbing lights is unexpectedly magical.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit, offering cool temperatures and clear skies. Try to avoid weekends and national holidays, particularly the two Golden Weeks in early May and early October. To save time and skip long lines, consider hiring an English-speaking private driver and purchasing VIP access tickets that include close parking and priority entry. Prices vary, typically starting around $100 per person depending on services included.
If visiting the Great Wall is on your bucket list, you’ll find many ways to experience it: helicopter tours, vintage sidecar rides, bicycle routes and guided hikes can all offer calmer, less crowded perspectives. Advance planning will help you choose the section and style of visit that best match your interests and fitness level.
Info to go: Most international airlines fly into Beijing Capital International Airport. From there, travel time to the various sections of the wall ranges from about 1.5 to 2.5 hours by car. Commune by the Great Wall is a short drive from local transport hubs and roughly a 20-minute transfer from Beijing Capital, depending on traffic.