One of the ports on our sailing tour of the Greek islands was the rugged, mountainous isle of Folegandros, its shores edged with small beaches and crowned by a medieval, whitewashed village perched on a cliff some 650 feet above the sea. Despite its striking beauty, the island remains relatively uncrowded—ferry connections are limited, so it doesn’t draw the same crowds as more accessible destinations.
Wandering the narrow cobbled lanes, we came upon a tree-shaded taverna where the owner waved us toward empty chairs on the patio. We sat, ordered cold mugs of local beer, and enjoyed salty olives and fresh cheese while chatting with the villagers around us in a playful mix of Greek, English and expressive hand gestures. The owner soon returned with a tray and urged us to join a communal ritual: rakomelo.
He poured raki—a potent distilled spirit made from grapes or figs and often flavored with anise—into glasses, then added spoonfuls of thyme honey plus cinnamon and other warming spices. He set the mixture briefly alight; after we blew out the flames, we downed the strong, sweet-spiced drink amid calls of “Yasou!” (“To your health!”). That spontaneous moment with locals, part convivial toast and part tasting of island tradition, is the kind of serendipitous encounter that makes travel memorable.