As soon as I slip into the cool water and put on my mask and snorkel, a penguin darts past. Then another. And another. They appear in an instant and vanish just as quickly, replaced by sea turtles and marine iguanas that drift above submerged rocks, nibbling algae while the current rocks them gently. Nearby, a trio of sea lions performs a playful underwater ballet, casting curious glances my way before resuming their antics.
On another day we drive into the highlands of Isla Santa Cruz to see giant tortoises in the wild. These iconic reptiles commonly live to be a century or more, and seeing them up close is both humbling and unforgettable.
PHOTO: © SUSAN B. BARNES
These are only a few of the many memories my sister Karen and I collected on a 10-day expedition cruise through Galápagos National Park last December. For as long as I can remember — certainly since high school, long before “bucket lists” became common parlance — I dreamed of visiting the Galápagos to witness wildlife that is largely untouched and unafraid of people. When the chance arose to travel with National Geographic Expeditions, we seized it.
Our base for the trip was the National Geographic Endeavour II, an intimate expedition ship that carries just 96 guests and a crew of 66, many of whom are locals from the Galápagos and mainland Ecuador. The ship’s 52 all-exterior cabins offer windows that make it easy to scan the horizon for wildlife. Its compact size allows the vessel to navigate the islands nimbly, adjusting course when required by park regulations or when an unexpected opportunity for adventure appears.
PHOTO: © SUSAN B. BARNES
When we boarded and checked into our cabin, we were shown the aft Lounge Deck where the ship stores its expedition gear, including snorkeling masks, fins and shorty wetsuits available for guests throughout the cruise. We had done our homework and, knowing water temperatures in the Galápagos average around 67°F from June through December, brought our own full-body wetsuits, gloves and booties for daily snorkeling.
Meals on the Endeavour II are communal, creating opportunities to meet fellow travelers and share stories from the day. The culinary team prepares flavorful, inventive dishes and readily accommodates vegan, vegetarian and other dietary restrictions such as gluten- and dairy-free needs. Sustainability is a priority: much of the produce served on board is sourced from as many as 40 farmers across the archipelago, and all other provisions come from the islands or mainland Ecuador, keeping the ship’s supply chain local whenever possible.
Each day began early with small-group outings led by experienced local naturalist guides who are experts in Galápagos ecology. Their excursions included snorkeling, kayaking, Zodiac rides and hikes on varied terrain. After returning to the ship for lunch, we usually went back ashore or out on the water for more exploration in the afternoons. Each evening, the naturalists gave presentations about the archipelago’s flora and fauna and often shared their personal projects, from wildlife photography to environmental education.
We were especially fortunate to have Dr. Sylvia Earle aboard as a special guest. A National Geographic Explorer at Large and a renowned oceanographer, Dr. Earle has dedicated her life to protecting the sea. Her talks were inspiring, and she joined us in the field — snorkeling and hiking alongside passengers — which elevated the trip into a truly exceptional experience for Karen and me.
PHOTO: © SUSAN B. BARNES
My long-standing passion for marine life made Dr. Earle’s presence especially meaningful. Her knowledge, energy and enthusiasm turned an already bucket-list Galápagos voyage into a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that Karen and I will always remember.
INFO TO GO
National Geographic Expeditions runs 10-day Galápagos Islands expedition cruises year-round. Flights from the United States to José Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport in Guayaquil, Ecuador, are available on several carriers. Guests typically arrive in Guayaquil for an overnight stay, fly the next morning to the Galápagos to board the National Geographic Endeavour II, and after the cruise return to Guayaquil for another overnight before flying home.