When I first visited Playa del Carmen on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula more than 20 years ago, the town felt like a scene from an old Western. Dry wind kicked up dust as soon as I stepped from my car, and flies buzzed in the still air. As I walked toward the docks to catch the ferry to Cozumel, I half-expected to hear a gruff demand for my money. That never happened, but I didn’t linger long that first time.
Today, Playa del Carmen—south of Cancún and roughly halfway down the well-paved, 100-mile coastal road—has evolved into a family-friendly destination while retaining the relaxed rhythm of a seaside village. Miles of soft white sand meet some of the clearest waters in the Caribbean. Near the docks, locals and visitors eat fresh lobster, red snapper, pollo pibil (chicken slow-cooked in banana leaves) or poc chuc (spicy pork with onions and tomatoes) at outdoor restaurants, often washed down with a cold Mexican beer. Nearby markets offer embroidered dresses, hammocks and quartz sculptures, with shopkeepers ready to haggle. Much of this activity centers within a block of the beach, which remains the region’s main draw.
The Yucatán boasts one of the Caribbean’s finest stretches of sand, which is why families return year after year, especially in winter. Many U.S. cities have direct flights to Cancún, making it easy to add a family getaway after a business trip. Playa del Carmen—also referred to as the Riviera Maya or Playacar—is about a 45-minute drive from Cancún International Airport. Development has increased markedly, with new resorts springing up each year, particularly north of town in Mayakoba, and the area now rivals Cancún in popularity.
All-inclusive resorts are a favorite choice for families because they simplify budgeting and planning. Properties such as Iberostar, Dreams Resort and the upscale Grand Velas offer multiple on-site restaurants and include drinks and many activities in the rate. Days can be spent relaxing on the pristine beach with a good book, swimming and snorkeling in exceptionally clear water, kayaking or sailing along the shore. Sunrise and sunset walks under swaying royal palms are a simple pleasure all ages enjoy.
Venturing beyond your hotel pays off. Dive enthusiasts should take the ferry to Cozumel, where Palancar Reef is renowned for its vibrant marine life and dramatic coral formations. Snorkelers will appreciate Chankanaab Lagoon on Cozumel’s southwest coast, where visibility can exceed 100 feet and colorful jewelfish and parrotfish swim in calm turquoise water. In San Miguel, Cozumel’s main town, whitewashed buildings and tiled roofs shelter artisan shops around the zócalo (main square). Black coral jewelry is a notable local specialty—one of the few places in the world where this material is available—and artisans craft distinctive necklaces, bracelets and earrings.
Snorkeling at Xcaret Park © Enrique Gomez | Dreamstime.com
The mainland also offers excellent snorkeling. Just north of Playa, Coco Beach has a small reef about 20 yards offshore that attracts butterflyfish and sergeant majors, although currents can be strong. For families, Xcaret—an ecological theme park five miles south of Playa del Carmen—is a popular option. Xcaret combines a nature preserve with attractions such as a lagoon, an underground river that passes through caves and inlets, opportunities to swim with dolphins and pony rides. Xel-Há, further along the coast, offers shallow, protected lagoons ideal for teaching children to snorkel. These parks are popular with tour groups from Cancún, so arriving early or late in the day helps avoid crowds.
Further south lies Tulum, the region’s most famous archaeological site. Perched on a cliff above a palm-fringed beach, the well-preserved ruins include about 60 structures dating from roughly 700–1000 CE, when the Maya civilization was past its peak. The fortified city’s ramparts—up to 23 feet thick and 10 to 16 feet high—served defensive purposes, with interior walkways where defenders could repel attackers. Many buildings feature stuccoed gargoyle faces in the corners. In the Temple of the Frescoes, a three-level mural represents the Maya cosmos: the underworld, the earthly realm and the heavens of the creator and rain gods. From there you can see El Castillo, a watchtower fortress above the sea, whose pyramid-like stairway leads to sweeping ocean views.
About 30 miles northwest of Tulum is Coba, a less-visited but impressive Mayan site set deep in the jungle. Much of Coba remains unrestored, giving a sense of discovery as you explore. Once home to perhaps 40,000 people around the year 600 CE, Coba is linked by stone-paved causeways extending in all directions. The highlight is Nohoch Mul, a 135-foot pyramid and the tallest Maya structure in the Yucatán. Visitors can climb its 120 steps for panoramic views above the dense canopy.
With a blend of Mayan ruins, soft white sand, crystalline water and flavorful Mexican cuisine (and margaritas for the adults), Playa del Carmen is an excellent choice for a family’s first international trip. Once more reminiscent of film sets than vacation resorts, it has grown into a world-class destination with comfortable, luxurious options that keep families returning.
Mayan ruins at Tulum © Hugoht | Dreamstime.com
Playa del Carmen Info to Go
All flights arrive at Cancún International Airport. Playa del Carmen is roughly 45 minutes south of the airport by car. Many all-inclusive resorts include airport transfers in their packages; otherwise, taxi fares typically range from $60–90. The highway to Playa del Carmen is well-maintained if you prefer to rent a car.
Where to stay in Playa del Carmen
Dreams Tulum Resort & Spa A bit farther from the airport (about 90 minutes), this all-inclusive resort offers a peaceful setting close to family-friendly attractions such as Tulum and Xel-Há. Carretera Chetumal-Puerto Juárez Km. 236.7, Tulum. $$$
Grand Velas Riviera Maya Known for outstanding dining and service, this beachfront property offers spacious rooms, modern design and kids’ activity programs. Carretera Cancún Tulum Km. 62, Playa del Carmen. $$$–$$$$
Iberostar Paraíso Maya A collection of linked all-inclusive resorts north of Playa del Carmen, offering extensive beach access and family-friendly amenities. Carretera Chetumal-Puerto Juárez Km. 309, Playa del Carmen. $$–$$$
Restaurants in Playa del Carmen
La Coqueta Affordable Mexican cuisine with a seafood focus in Tulum. Avenida Coba, Tulum. $
PapaCharly Pastas Homemade pasta dishes crafted by an Argentinean-Italian family. Avenida 25 between Calle 30 and Calle 32, Playa del Carmen. $$
Yaxche Maya Cuisine For authentic Yucatecan dishes, try this eatery on Playa’s main thoroughfare, Avenida Quinta. Avenida Quinta and Calle 22, Playa del Carmen. $
Read more about cenotes in the Yucatán Peninsula.