Daniel Libeskind’s addition to the Royal Ontario Museum is anything but harmonious with the original block-long stone and brick structure. Shards of aluminum and ribbons of glass extend onto the sidewalk with razor-like edges, rejecting right angles and conventional symmetry. From a distance, the 1914 building appears to have been pierced by a surreal prism, yet the steady stream of visitors snapping photographs suggests the intervention has succeeded. Libeskind’s bold contrast with the old architecture helped spark a wider 21st-century architectural revival in Toronto.
Libeskind is one of several high-profile architects who have reshaped Toronto’s skyline in recent years, contributing to its “Design City” reputation. The Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, with its dramatic glass exterior, opened in 2007. The Four Seasons Centre, designed by Diamond & Schmitt and home to the Canadian Opera Company and the National Ballet of Canada, debuted a year earlier. Will Alsop’s distinctive “tabletop” building for the Ontario College of Art and Design appears to stand on multicolored supports. Nearby, the Art Gallery of Ontario reopened in November 2008 with a major renovation by Frank Gehry—his first commission in Canada and a high-profile addition to the city he grew up in.
Alongside bold contemporary projects, established architects have led restoration efforts that helped revive neglected neighborhoods. Eb Zeidler, known for his Ontario Place work in the 1970s, and his family acquired the circa-1889 Gladstone Hotel in West Queen West. With Christina Zeidler—an Ontario College of Art and Design graduate—at the helm, the hotel preserved the city’s only remaining hand-operated elevator while adding a restaurant and bar. The Gladstone has become a cultural hub and a focal point for a creative, youthful community.
Adaptive reuse has also created entirely new districts. An abandoned 19th-century distillery near Lake Ontario was transformed into the Distillery District, where red brick buildings now house shops, galleries and restaurants. Visitors can sample freshly made chocolate at Soma and visit the Corkin Gallery, whose owner Jane Corkin opened her first Toronto gallery in 1979 and has long promoted 20th-century photography. In its current space the gallery presents a wide range of media by both established and emerging artists.
The combination of striking contemporary architecture and the revitalization of formerly neglected areas has given Toronto a renewed energy that appeals to both locals and visitors. If you haven’t been back to the city in years—even since the Toronto Blue Jays’ 1993 World Series win—it’s worth returning for a fresh look.
Info to Go
Pearson International Airport (YYZ) is Canada’s busiest airport, serving more than 50 airlines. Located northwest of downtown, a taxi ride to the city center takes about 30 minutes (approximately $55). The Airport Express bus departs every 20 minutes (around $22 one way). Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport (YTZ) on Toronto Island is a short ferry ride from the downtown docks at Bathurst Street.
Diversions
Frank Gehry’s addition to the Art Gallery of Ontario (317 Dundas St. W., tel 416 979 6648) includes Galleria Italia, a large second-floor lounge where curved Douglas fir ribs evoke an inverted ship hull, and a stairwell that peeks outside the blue titanium back wall to frame views over Grange Park. The gallery also houses an impressive collection that includes sculptures by Henry Moore and landscapes by the Group of Seven, offering visitors a strong sampling of Canadian and international art.
Libeskind’s dramatic forms complement the wide-ranging collections at the Royal Ontario Museum (Bloor Street W., tel 416 586 8000). Beyond its natural history displays, including dinosaur skeletons, the ROM holds extensive collections of gems and artifacts from ancient Egypt, Greece and China.
Take a moment to rest inside St. James’ Cathedral (65 Church St., tel 416 364 7865) and admire the tallest steeple in Canada. The mid- to late-19th-century structure took nearly 25 years to complete and features notable stained-glass windows.
For a taste of historic extravagance, visit Casa Loma (1 Austin Terrace, tel 416 923 1171), built by financier Sir Henry Pellatt between 1911 and 1914. This castle includes underground tunnels, grand suites, secret passages, stables and two towers. The surrounding gardens are particularly lovely in spring and summer.
Although it’s no longer the world’s tallest freestanding structure, the CN Tower (301 Front St. W., tel 416 868 6937) remains the tallest building in the Americas at 1,815 feet. Ride the glass-floored elevator to the observation levels and, if you dare, step onto the floor to view the city and Lake Ontario far below. The SkyPod offers expansive views on clear days, reaching as far as Niagara Falls.
Toronto’s neighborhoods reflect its multicultural population. A walk through Chinatown near the AGO feels like a step into another world, and the city also features Korea Town, Greektown, Little Italy, Little India and Little Poland. Guided walking tours—especially those focused on Chinatown—can add context and history to the experience.
For performing arts, architect Jack Diamond’s Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts (145 Queen St. W., tel 416 363 6671) offers an intimate atmosphere across 2,000 seats and exemplary acoustics. The horseshoe-shaped auditorium is encased in a foot of concrete to insulate it from outside noise, creating an ideal environment for opera and ballet.
Lodging
The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto
Opened recently near the entertainment district, the 53-story hotel is the first Ritz-Carlton in Canada. 181 Wellington St. W., tel 416 585 2500 $$$$
Thompson Toronto
Located in the vibrant arts district, this hotel features a rooftop pool, bar and cabanas with excellent skyline and waterfront views. 550 Wellington St. W., tel 416 640 7778 $$$
Trump International Hotel & Tower
Opening this spring in the financial district, this tower occupies 325 Bay St., tel 416 306 5800 $$$$
Dining
Origin
Near St. James’ Cathedral in the St. Lawrence neighborhood, Origin serves inventive dishes inspired by global flavors. 107–109 King St. E., tel 416 603 8009 $$$
Pearl Harbourfront Restaurant
Known locally as “The Pink Pearl,” this Chinatown favorite is popular for dim sum. 207 Queens Quay W., tel 416 203 1233 $
Pure Spirits
Located in the Distillery District, this lively restaurant is known for seafood and dishes like sesame-encrusted ahi tuna. 55 Mill St., tel 416 361 5859 $$