Just to be clear, James and I lingering in a coffeehouse for more than an hour doesn’t mean we lack energy or purpose. Exploring can be tiring, and in Vienna, lingering over an afternoon coffee—or tea, in my case—is part of the culture. Taking time to savor the moment fits perfectly with the city’s relaxed rhythm.
We enjoy soaking up local atmosphere while traveling, especially when it offers a chance to slow down. Café Sperl on Gumpendorferstrasse is our favorite place to unwind, shake off jet lag and get oriented. Dating from 1880, the café brims with old-world charm: hanging lamps that make the wood parquet glow, tempting displays of cakes and pastries, and tall domed windows that frame the street outside. James savors a Maria Theresia, a fragrant mocha coffee with orange liqueur and brandy, while I stick to my pot of tea. We share a warm slice of thick apple strudel—the perfect cure for a chilly afternoon.
Anker Clock © Marco Scisetti | Dreamstime.com
Refreshed, we stroll toward the Ringstrasse, one of the loveliest boulevards we’ve seen. This year marks the 150th anniversary of Vienna’s famous ring road, commissioned by Emperor Franz Joseph. He engaged the leading architects of the day to create a sweeping ensemble of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles that still impresses visitors.
At Schwedenplatz we board the bright yellow Vienna Ring Tram in front of the Staatsoper for a half-hour loop around the Ringstrasse. The tram runs continuously around the perimeter and, though it doesn’t allow hop-on/hop-off service like the city trams, it features a multimedia system with an LCD screen and multilingual headphones that explain the sights. For visitors short on time, it’s a convenient orientation to the inner city.
We step off in front of the Opera House and decide to take a tour. Inside the imposing Neoclassical building, completed in 1869 as the first Ringstrasse commission, we climb a grand marble staircase and visit several richly decorated rooms. Despite initial local criticism at its premiere of Mozart’s Don Giovanni, the state opera now draws admiration for its exquisite frescoes in the foyer and veranda by Moritz von Schwind and for the Gustav Mahler Hall, adorned with tapestries inspired by Mozart’s The Magic Flute. The Tea Salon, with Karl Madjera’s ceiling painting The Music on Eagles’ Wings and 22-carat gold leaf accents, is particularly breathtaking.
Early the next morning we walk to the historic quarter to see St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Its Gothic limestone façade and soaring spires dominate the downtown skyline. The tiled roof bears a double-headed eagle and the city’s coat of arms, while chapels inside hold religious relics and ornate treasures.
That afternoon we pause at the historic Hotel Sacher with a single purpose: cake. Café Sacher Wien serves the original Sacher-Torte, a dense chocolate-raspberry cake made from a secret, multi-step recipe dating back over 180 years. Our slice arrives with a flourish and a scoop of whipped cream; the glossy iced surface carries a chocolate emblem stamped “Sacher,” an enduring reminder of the hotel’s culinary legacy.
Main entrance to Hofburg Palace © Marcin Łukaszewicz | Dreamstime.com
We visit the Sisi Museum in the Hofburg Palace’s Stephan Apartments to view the personal effects of Empress Elisabeth—“Sisi”—wife of Emperor Franz Joseph I. The exhibit reveals her intense concern for health and beauty through unusual exercise equipment and herbal remedies she kept in her private rooms. Her life ended tragically when she was assassinated in Geneva, but the museum preserves the details of her daily routines and the era’s courtly lifestyle.
The main palace tour offers glimpses of grand ballrooms still used each season. Standing on the polished floors, I imagine dancers in frothy gowns gliding to Mozart’s music. I tell myself we’ll return for one of those balls someday. James watches me with a knowing smile; after all these years he can read my whims quite well.
Outside the palace he takes my hand and, with a playful flourish, air-kisses it in a nod to ballroom etiquette. Then he lifts me into a clumsy, music-less waltz across the lawn. Our steps would never pass a professional’s muster, but passersby smile and look away indulgently. One circuit around the grass and we collapse in laughter, content in the sunshine and the joy of the city. Even an imperfect Viennese waltz feels like the perfect end to the day.
Vienna Info to Go
Vienna International Airport sits about 11 miles from the city center and is easily reached by the City Airport Train (CAT), which runs every 30 minutes from early morning until late evening. The 16-minute trip arrives at Wien Mitte station, where you can connect to trains, buses, trams and the U-Bahn. Single tickets are reasonably priced. Several airport bus lines and taxis serve the city, and most major car rental companies and limousine services are available at the terminal.
Where to Stay in Vienna
Hotel Sacher Vienna This privately owned luxury hotel is famous as the birthplace of the original Sacher-Torte. Centrally located. Philharmonikerstrasse 4 $$$$$
Hotel Sans Souci Wien A blend of Bohemian flair and classic luxury, this historic hotel beside the MuseumsQuartier has been redesigned with contemporary touches. Burggasse 2 $$$$
Palais Coburg Residenz Housed in a restored palace, this boutique hotel features elegant suites, a relaxing spa and a secluded city garden. Coburgbastei 4 $$$$$
Restaurants in Vienna
Mraz & Sohn Markus and Manuel Mraz serve inventive dishes with global influences and locally sourced cheeses. Wallensteinstrasse 59 $$$
Steirereck Restaurant A refined setting in Stadtpark offering modern Austrian cuisine alongside classic Viennese dishes. Heumarkt 2A $$$$$
Walter Bauer A family-run restaurant elevated to fine dining, showcasing traditional dishes and a well-curated wine cellar. Sonnenfelsgasse 17 $$$$